Care and/or make-up cosmetic composition structured with silicone polymers and organogelling agents, in rigid form

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a care and/or make-up cosmetic composition comprising a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil, structured with a gelling system comprising 1) at least one polymer having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least one moiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1 000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C., and 2) at least one non-polymeric organogelling agent.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a care and/or treatment and/or make-upcosmetic composition for the skin, including the scalp, and/or the lipsof human beings, containing a liquid fatty phase comprising at least onesilicone oil, gelled with a particular polymer, provided in particularin the form of a cast make-up product, in particular as a make-up sticksuch as lipsticks, whose application leads to a glossy and non-migratingdeposit.

A care and/or treatment cosmetic composition is a composition whichcomprises at least one active compound for treating wrinkles, formoisturizing the skin and the lips, for protecting the skin, the lipsand superficial body growths from ultraviolet rays, for treating acneand/or for acting as self-tanning agent.

The invention relates more particularly to cosmetic and dermatologicalcompositions such as make-up products exhibiting properties of stayingpower, non-transfer and stability.

PRIOR STATE OF THE ART

In cosmetic or dermatological products, it is common to find astructured, namely gelled and/or rigidified, liquid fatty phase; this isin particular the case in solid compositions such as deodorants, balmsand lipsticks, eyeshadows, concealer products and foundations which havebeen cast. This structuring is obtained with the aid of waxes orfillers. Unfortunately, these waxes and fillers tend to mattify thecomposition, which is not always desirable in particular for a lipstickor an eyeshadow.

The expression liquid fatty phase is understood to mean, for thepurposes of the application, a fatty phase which is liquid at roomtemperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), which iscomposed of one or more fatty substances which are liquid at roomtemperature, which are also called oils, which are compatible with eachother and which contain a silicone oil.

The expression structured liquid fatty phase is understood to mean, forthe purposes of the application, that this structured phase does not rununder its own weight.

The structuring of the liquid fatty phase makes it possible inparticular to limit its exudation from solid compositions and,furthermore, to limit, after deposition on the skin or the lips, themigration of this phase into wrinkles and fine lines, which isparticularly sought for a lipstick or an eyeshadow. Indeed, substantialmigration of the liquid fatty phase, charged with colouring matter,leads to an inaesthetic effect around the lips or the eyes, particularlyaccentuating the wrinkles and fine lines. This migration is often citedby women as a major defect of conventional lipsticks or eyeshadows. Theexpression migration is understood to mean an overflowing of thecomposition deposited on the skin or the lips, outside its initialoutline.

The gloss is mainly linked to the nature of the liquid fatty phase.Thus, it is possible to reduce the amount of waxes and fillers in thecomposition in order to increase the gloss of a lipstick, but then themigration of the liquid fatty phase increases. In other words, theamounts of waxes and fillers necessary for producing a stick of suitablehardness are a barrier to the gloss of the deposit.

The document EP-A-1 068 856 [1] describes solid cosmetic compositions,with no wax, containing a liquid fatty phase structured with a polymer,in which the fatty phase is mainly a non-silicone oil.

The document WO-A-01/97758 [2] describes cosmetic compositions based onpolyamide resins comprising a gelling agent chosen from esters andamides of N-acylamino acids and mixtures thereof. The composition alsocomprises a solvent for the polyamide resin which may be chosen fromunsaturated and saturated fatty alcohols, fatty and/or aromaticcarboxylic acid esters, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated alcohols andacids, silicones, mineral oils and branched-chain hydrocarbons;preferably, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, mineral oils, branchedhydrocarbons and mixtures thereof.

The use of fatty phases based on silicone oils makes it possiblecurrently to obtain cosmetic compositions having a long staying powerwhen the oils are only slightly volatile or are non-volatile, namely agood staying power in particular of the colour over time (unchanging,unfading), and transfer-free compositions when the silicone oils arevolatile, not forming a deposit on a support such as a glass, a cup, afabric or a cigarette, placed in contact with the film of make-up.

Currently, the use of silicone oils in cosmetics is limited by the smallnumber of molecules which can gel these media and thus give compositionswhich exist in solid form such as lipsticks or cast foundations forexample. The use of cosmetic compositions whose fatty phase ispredominantly siliconized leads, in most cases, to problems ofcompatibility with the ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics.

In the documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069 [3], U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441[4], U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216 [5], WO-A-99/06473 [40], U.S. Pat. No.6,353,076 [41], WO-A-02/17870 [6], and WO-A-02/17871 [7], cosmeticcompositions such as deodorant sticks or gels, comprising a siliconeoily phase gelled with a polysiloxane- and polyamide-based wax, or witha polymer containing siloxane groups and groups capable of hydrogeninteractions, have been prepared.

In WO-A-02/17870 [6], it is envisaged to add to the composition anothergelling agent, but the quantities added should be low, for example lessthan 0.5% in the case of hydroxystearic acid, in order to preserve theclarity of the product.

In WO-A-02/17871 [7], it is also envisaged to use a second gelling agentwith the silicone polymer in a quantity representing 0.5 to 2% by weightof the composition, and a solvent system comprising a non-siliconeorganic compound, a volatile silicone and optionally another silicone.

The document EP-A-1 177 784 [8] illustrates a deodorant compositioncomprising a liquid phase containing, for example, a volatile siliconeand optionally a non-volatile silicone and/or a non-silicone hydrophobicorganic liquid, structured with an organic compound with amido groups,with optionally one or more polymeric or non-polymeric secondarystructuring agents in small proportions. Among the secondary structuringagents, this document mentions polymers having siloxane groups andgroups exhibiting hydrogen interactions without giving examples orresults on a composition using these polymers.

It should be stated that the documents [6], [7] and [8] relate todeodorants for which the problems of exudation and migration of theliquid fatty phase charged with colouring matter into wrinkles and finelines, and of staying power and non-transfer of the composition, do notexist as in the case of the make-up cosmetic products described above.Moreover, no gloss is sought for deodorants.

In addition, the sticks obtained by structuring the liquid fatty phasewith solely one or more gelling silicone polymers do not exhibitsufficient mechanical resistance to shearing, in particular during theapplication of the stick to the lips and/or the skin, leading tobreaking of the stick.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

The subject of the invention is precisely a care and/or make-up and/ortreatment composition for the skin and/or the lips, which makes itpossible to overcome the disadvantages mentioned above.

Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the use of particularpolymers combined with one or more non-polymeric organogelling agentsmade it possible to structure, in the absence or in the presence ofsmall quantities of wax, the silicone oil-based liquid fatty phases, inthe form of a make-up or care product whose application led to a glossy,satiny or matt film according to the wishes of the user and/or the typeof non-migrating product desired, and to reinforce the staying powerand/or transfer-free properties of these products. In addition, theirheat-stability is enhanced.

The expression stable is understood to mean a composition which does notexude at room temperature (25° C.) for at least 2 months, or even up to9 months.

The combination of these polymers with one or more organogelling agentsmakes it possible to obtain gels, in particular solid gels, having agood mechanical strength and an acceptable rheology in order to allow adeposit in a sufficient quantity which does not feel sticky, which has avery good staying power, which is transfer-free (in particular whenvolatile silicone oils are used) and which does not migrate intowrinkles and fine lines.

The effects obtained by virtue of this combination do not appear in thedocuments relating to deodorants which possibly envisage thiscombination since the problems solved by this combination do not existin the field of deodorants.

The invention not only applies to make-up products for the lips such aslipsticks, lip pencils and lip glosses, but also to care and/ortreatment products for the skin, including the scalp, and the lips, suchas sun protection products in stick form for the skin, the face or thelips, or lip balms, to make-up products for the skin, both of the faceand of the human body, such as foundations cast as a stick or in a dish,concealer products and temporary tattoo products, to cleansing products,in particular in stick form, and to make-up products for the eyes suchas eyeliners, in particular in pencil form, and mascaras, in particularcakes for keratinous fibres (eyelashes, eyebrows, hair).

More precisely, the subject of the invention is a care and/or make-upcosmetic composition comprising a liquid fatty phase comprising at leastone silicone oil, structured with at least one gelling system comprising

-   a) at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a    weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000,    containing at least one moiety comprising:    -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form        of a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one of the groups is different from an ester group, and-   b) at least one non-polymeric organogelling agent, the liquid fatty    phase and the gelling system forming a physiologically acceptable    medium.

According to the invention, the expression “gelling system” isunderstood to mean a system which makes it possible to rigidify thecomposition by forming hydrogen bonds.

The composition of the invention may be provided in the form of a paste,a solid or a more or less viscous cream. It may be a simple or multiple,in particular an oil-in-water or a water-in-oil, emulsion, a rigid orsoft gel having an oily continuous phase. The simple or multipleemulsion may comprise an aqueous or oily continuous phase optionallycontaining dispersed lipid vesicles. In particular, it is provided in aform cast as a stick or in a dish and more especially in the form of anoily, in particular anhydrous, rigid gel and in particular of ananhydrous stick. More especially, it is provided in the form of atranslucent or opaque rigid gel (according to whether it containspigments or otherwise), the liquid fatty phase forming the continuousphase. An anhydrous composition will comprise less than 10% by weight ofwater, for example less than 5% by weight.

The structuring of the liquid fatty phase can be modulated according tothe nature of the polymer and the non-polymeric organogelling agent usedin the gelling system, and may be such that a rigid structure isobtained in the form of a baton or a stick, having good mechanicalstrength. When they are coloured, these batons make it possible, afterapplication, to obtain a glossy deposit, which does not migrate andwhich has good staying power, in particular of the colour over time. Thecomposition may comprise one or more structuring polymers and one ormore non-polymeric organogelling agents.

Avantageously, the composition of the invention is a composition for thelips and even better a lipstick composition in particular in stick form.

Liquid Fatty Phase

According to the invention, the liquid fatty phase comprises at leastone silicone oil which may be a volatile oil, a non-volatile oil or amixture of volatile oil(s) and of non-volatile oil(s). An oil is anon-aqueous compound which is immiscible with water.

According to the invention, the volatile silicone oil may be chosen fromlinear or cyclic silicone oils having a flash point equal to or greaterthan 40° C. and advantageously greater than the softening point of thegelling system and/or a viscosity of less than 8 cSt, such as linear orcyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

By way of examples of such volatile oils, there may be mentioned thecompounds given in Table 1 below.

The non-volatile silicone oils may be polydimethylsiloxanes,polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, dimethicone copolyols, alkylmethiconecopolyols, cetyldimethicone, silicones with alkylglyceryl ether groups,silicones with side amine groups and dilauroyltrimethylol propanesiloxysilicate. The alkyl groups of these oils have in particular from 2to 24 carbon atoms.

The non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention may bein particular linear, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) whichare liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl,alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the silicone chainend, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated siliconessuch as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones,diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, fluorinated silicones with one or moregroup(s) that is (are) pendent or at the chain end having from 1 to 12carbon atoms of which all or some of the hydrogen atoms are substitutedwith fluorine atoms, dimethiconols and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, the liquid fatty phase may comprise at leastone volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile non-silicone oil.

For the purposes of the invention, a volatile silicone or non-siliconeoil has a flash point preferably of 40 to 135° C. or no flash point.Volatile oils have at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure(760 mmHg) a vapour pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mmHg (2.66 Pato 40 000 Pa) and even better ranging from 0.1 to 90 mmHg (13 Pa to 12000 Pa). The non-volatile oils then correspond to a vapour pressure ofless than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa).

The silicone oils of the invention have a viscosity which isadvantageously chosen from the ranging going from 5 to 800 000 cSt at25° C., preferably from 10 to 500 000 cSt, and even better from 10 to 5000 cSt. TABLE 1 Flash point Viscosity Compound (° C.) (cSt)Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5)Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 55 2.5 (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4)Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 93 7 Decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) 631.7 KF 96 A from Shin Etsu 94 6 PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 561.5 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) from Dow 87 2 CorningPDMS DC 200 (5 cSt) 134 5 cSt from Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (3 cSt) 102 3cSt from Dow Corning

The volatile silicone oil may also be chosen from the group comprisingfluorinated silicone oils such as silicones with alkyl andperfluoroalkyl groups, silicones with oxyethylenated/oxypropylenated(EO/PP) side groups and with perfluorinated groups, silicones withperfluorinated side groups and with glycerolated side groups,perfluoroalkylmethylphenyl-siloxanes, these oils having a vapourpressure greater than or equal to 0.02 mmHg.

According to the invention, the liquid fatty phase may contain one ormore volatile or non-volatile non-silicone oils. The volatilenon-silicone oils may be chosen from the group comprising hydrocarbonoils and volatile esters and ethers such as volatile hydrocarbons suchas isododecane and isohexadecane, C₈-C₁₆ isoparaffins, isohexyl orisodecyl neopentanoates.

The volatile non-silicone oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oilssuch as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin,perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters ofperfluoroalkyl phosphates and fluorinated ester oils.

By way of example of volatile non-silicone oils which can be used in theinvention, there may be mentioned the compounds of Table 2 whichfollows. TABLE 2 Flash point Compound (° C.) Isododecane 43Isohexadecane 102 Isodecyl neopentanoate 118 Propylene glycol n-butylether 60 Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate 58 Propylene glycol methyl ether 46acetate* Isopar L (C₁₁-C₁₃ isoparaffin) 62 Isopar H (C₁₁-C₁₂isoparaffin) 56

The liquid fatty phase advantageously contains at least 30%, and evenbetter at least 40% by weight of silicone oil(s) advantageously having aviscosity of less than 1 000 cSt and even better of less than 100 cStbecause the silicone polymers used in the invention are more soluble insilicone oils of low viscosity. It may also contain other non-siliconeoils or a mixture of non-silicone oils.

When the fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, it advantageouslyrepresents from 3 to 89.4%, and even better from 5 to 60%, for examplefrom 5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

The liquid fatty phase may also contain other non-silicone oils, forexample polar oils such as:

-   -   hydrocarbonaceous vegetable oils with a high content of        triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of        glycerol in which the fatty acids may have varied chain lengths,        it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched,        saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat        germ, maize, sunflower, karite, castor, sweet almond, macadamia,        apricot, soybean, rapeseed, cottonseed, lucerne, poppy seed,        pumpkin seed, sesame, gourd, avocado, hazelnut, grapeseed or        blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa,        olive, rye, safflower, candlenut, passion flower and rose musk        oils; or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those        sold by the company Stearines Dubois or those sold under the        names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel;    -   synthetic oils or esters of formula R⁵COOR₆ in which R₅        represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid        containing from 1 to 40 and even better from 7 to 19 carbon        atoms and R₆ represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing        from 1 to 40 and even better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with        R₅+R₆>10 such as, for example, Purcellin oil (ketostearyl        octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C₁₂ to C₁₅ alcohol benzoate,        isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octanoates,        decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols;        hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl        malate; and esters of pentaerythritol;    -   synthetic esters having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;    -   C₈ to C₂₆ fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and        octyldodecanol;    -   fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid; and    -   mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty phase may also contain apolar oils such as linear orbranched hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin,which are volatile or not, such as volatile oils of paraffin (such asisoparaffins, isododecane) or non-volatile oils of paraffin and itsderivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenesuch as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

Generally, the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 99% of the totalweight of the composition and even better from 20 to 75%.

Solid Particles

According to the invention, the composition generally comprises, inaddition, solid particles chosen from fillers and pigments. Generally,the mean size of the solid particles is from 10 nm to 50 μm, and evenbetter from 50 nm to 30 μm, for example from 100 nm to 10 μm.

The fillers used in the cosmetic compositions are generally intended toabsorb sweat and sebum and/or to provide mattness. According to theinvention, they further make it possible to structure the liquid fattyphase containing a silicone oil and to reinforce the staying powerand/or transfer-free properties of the composition and also the heatstability.

The expression pigments is understood to mean any solid particleinsoluble in the composition which serves to give and/or modify a colourand/or an iridescent appearance.

These pigments may simultaneously provide the function of absorption ofsweat and of sebum, and the function of coloration or of modification ofappearance of the composition, that is of the make-up and/or carecosmetic product. In the invention, they also bring about thestructuring of the liquid fatty phase.

These fillers or pigments may be either of a hydrophobic nature, or of ahydrophilic nature. When these fillers or pigments are hydrophilicparticles, their dispersion in the composition is facilitated either bycoating them with a film of hydrophobic compound or by adding adispersant and in particular an amphiphilic silicone to the composition.

The hydrophobic pigments or fillers may consist of hydrophobic polymeror copolymer powders. By way of example of hydrophobic polymers andcopolymers used as fillers, there may be mentioned:

-   -   1) fluorinated polymers such as polytetrafluoroethylene powders        and tetrafluoroethylene and olefin, for example ethylene or        propylene, copolymer powders; 2) silicone elastomers, for        example polymethylsilsesquioxane powders (Tospearl® from        Toshiba); 3) polyolefins such as polyethylene; 4) polyalkyl        methacrylates, for example polymethyl methacrylate; 5)        polyamides (Nylon®); 6) polystyrenes; 7) polyesters and        derivatives thereof; 8) polyacrylics (Polytrap® from Dow        Corning) or polymethyl methacrylate; and 9) polyurethanes, for        example hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexalactone        powders.

It is also possible to use hydrophilic fillers which are surface-treatedso as to be hydrophobic, such as boron nitride, starch, precipitatedcalcium carbonate, silica, glass, or a ceramic.

Instead of powders, it is of course possible to use fibres of ahydrophobic nature, in particular fibres of the polymers and copolymersmentioned above.

The solid particles may also consist of pigments and/or pearlescentagents which make it possible to obtain a make-up with high coverage,that is to say which does not reveal the skin, the lips or thesuperficial body growths. These particles make it possible, in addition,to reduce the sticky feel of the compositions.

The pigments may be white or coloured, inorganic and/or organic, coatedor not. There may be mentioned, among the inorganic pigments, titaniumor zinc dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides,and iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue,chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there maybe mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lacquersbased on carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium. The pigmentsmay represent from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 40%, and evenbetter from 2 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

The pearlescent pigments (or pearlescent agents) may be chosen fromwhite pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or withbismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as mica-titaniumwith iron oxides, mica-titanium with in particular ferric blue andchromium oxide, mica-titanium with an organic pigment of theabovementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuthoxychloride. The pearlescent pigments may also have goniochromaticproperties and may be provided in the form of liquid crystals ormultilayer platelets. They may represent from 0 to 30% of the totalweight of the composition, and even better from 0.1 to 20%.

When the pigments or fillers are hydrophilic, they are coated with afilm of hydrophobic compound so as to introduce them into the liquidfatty phase of the composition of the invention.

The coating may be a fluorinated coating such as a perfluoroalkyl mono-or diester of phosphoric acid, (acid or salt), a perfluoropolyether, aperfluorocarboxylic or -sulfonic acid, or a perfluoroalkyl phosphatesalt of diethanolamine.

The coating may be a coating based on a fluorinated silicone, forexample a coating-grafting with a silane having a perfluoroalkyl group.

The coating may also be carried out by means of silicone derivatives,for example a coating-grafting with reactive silicones initiallypossessing hydrogenosilane groups, a coating-grafting with adiorganosilane such as dimethylchlorosilane or with analkylalkoxysilane, a coating-grafting with a silane having aglycydoxypropyl group, a coating with a polyglycerolated silicone, or acoating with a silicone-g-polyacrylic or silicone grafted acryliccopolymer.

It is also possible to use a coating with N-acylamino acids, for exampleN-lauroyllysine, coatings with fatty acids or fatty acid salts of thestearic acid type, coatings with lecithins and coatings with ester oils.

It is also possible to facilitate the dispersion of the hydrophilicparticles by means of at least one amphiphilic silicone which plays therole of a surfactant between the hydrophilic particles and thehydrophobic silicone phase.

These amphiphilic silicones contain a silicone part which is compatiblewith the highly siliconized medium of the compositions of the invention,and a hydrophilic part which may be, for example, the residue of acompound chosen from alcohols and polyols, having from 1 to 12 hydroxylgroups, polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two oxyalkylenated moietiesand having from 0 to 20 oxypropylenated moieties and/or from 0 to 20oxyethylenated moieties. This hydrophilic part therefore has affinityfor the hydrophilic particles and promotes their dispersion in thesilicone medium.

The amphiphilic silicone may be an oil with no gelling activity. Suchoils may consist of:

-   -   dimethicone copolyols, optionally containing phenyl groups,    -   alkylmethicone copolyols,    -   polyglycerolated silicones, that is to say silicones with        alkylglyceryl ether groups,    -   silicones with perfluorinated side groups and with glycerolated        side groups,    -   silicones with polyoxyethylenated/polyoxypropylenated side        groups and with perfluorinated side groups,    -   copolymers with a silicone block and with a hydrophilic block        other than polyether, for example polyoxazoline or        polyethyleneimine,    -   graft copolymers of the silicone-grafted polysaccharide type,    -   copolymers with a silicone block and with a        polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene block.

The amphiphilic silicone used in the invention may also be anamphiphilic silicone resin which is at least partially crosslinked.

By way of example of such resins, there may be mentioned:

-   -   crosslinked silicone resins with alkyl polyether groups, such as        polyoxyethylene (POE) and polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene        (POE/POP), described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004 [9], and    -   silicone resins partially crosslinked with α,ω-dienes,        possessing both hydrophilic POE/POP side chains and hydrophobic        alkyl side chains such as those described in EP-A-1 048 686        [10]. The hydrophilic side chains are obtained by reaction with        a POE/POP having only one vinyl end, and the alkyl side chains        are formed by reaction with an α-olefin having a fatty chain.

In the amphiphilic silicone resin, the silicone part advantageouslyconsists of polydimethylsiloxane.

Gelling Silicone Polymer

The structuring or gelling polymer(s) of the composition are solid atroom temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and aresoluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.

The expression polymer is understood to mean, for the purpose of theinvention, a compound having at least 2 repeating moieties, preferablyat least 3 repeating moieties and even better 10 repeating moieties.

In the composition of the invention, the silicone polymer of the gellingsystem generally represents from 0.5 to 80%, preferably from 2 to 60%and even better from 5 to 40% of the total weight of the composition.

Moreover, the polymer of the gelling system/silicone oil(s) mass ratiois preferably from 0.1 to 50%.

The polymers used as gelling agents in the composition of the inventionare polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described inthe documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069 [3], U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441 [4],U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216 [5] and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680 [11].

According to the invention, the polymers used as gelling agent maybelong to the following two families:

-   -   1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of        establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being        situated in the polymer chain; and/or    -   2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of        establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being        situated on the grafts or branches.

The polymers to which the invention applies are solids which may besolubilized beforehand in a solvent with hydrogen interactions, capableof breaking the hydrogen interactions of the polymers, such as C₂ to C₈lower alcohols and in particular ethanol, n-propanol or isopropanol,before being brought into contact with the silicone oils according tothe invention. It is also possible to use these hydrogen interaction“breaking” solvents as cosolvent. These solvents may then be kept in thecomposition or may be removed by selective evaporation which is wellknown to persons skilled in the art.

The polymers comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogeninteractions in the polymer chain may be polymers comprising at leastone moiety corresponding to the formula:

in which:

-   -   1) R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ which may be identical or different,        represent a group chosen from:        -   linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C₁ to            C₄₀ hydrocarbon-based groups, possibly containing in their            chain one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and            possibly being partially or totally substituted with            fluorine atoms,        -   C₆ to C₁₀ aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or m            ore C₁ to C₄ alkyl groups,        -   polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more            oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms;    -   2) the groups X, which may b e identical or different, represent        a linear or branched C₁ to C₃₀ alkylenediyl group, possibly        containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen        atoms;    -   3) Y is a saturated or unsaturated, C₁ to C₅₀ linear or branched        divalent alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or        arylalkylene group, possibly comprising one or more oxygen,        sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or bearing as substituent one        of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl,        C₃ to C₈ cycloalkyl, C₁ to C₄₀ alkyl, C₅ to C₁₀ aryl, phenyl        optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C₁ to C₃ alkyl groups, C₁ to        C₃ hydroxyalkyl and C₁ to C₆ aminoalkyl, or    -   4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:        in which    -   T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C₃        to C₂₄ trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group        optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and        possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or        T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and    -   R⁵ represents a linear or branched C₁ to C₅₀ alkyl group or a        polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester,        amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or        sulphonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another        chain of the polymer;    -   5) the groups G, which may be identical or different, represent        divalent groups chosen from:        in which R⁶ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched        C₁ to C₂₀ alkyl group, on condition that at least 50% of the        groups R⁶ of the polymer represent a hydrogen atom and that at        least two of the groups G of the polymer are a group other than:    -   6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2        to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 000, preferably        from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.

According to the invention, 80% of the groups R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ of thepolymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups.

According to the invention, Y can represent various divalent groups,furthermore optionally comprising one or two free valencies to establishbonds with other moieties of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Yrepresents a group chosen from:

-   -   a) linear C₁ to C₂₀ and preferably C₁ to C₁₀ alkylene groups,    -   b) C₃₀ to C₅₆ branched alkylene groups possibly comprising rings        and unconjugated unsaturations,    -   c) C₅-C₆ cycloalkylene groups,    -   d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C₁        to C₄₀ alkyl groups,    -   e) C₁ to C₂₀ alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide        groups,    -   f) C₁ to C₂₀ alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents        chosen from hydroxyl, C₃ to C₈ cycloalkane, C₁ to C₃        hydroxyalkyl and C₁ to C₆ alkylamine groups,    -   g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:        in which R¹, R², R³, R⁴, T and m are as defined above, and    -   h) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:

The polyorganosiloxanes of the second family may be polymers comprisingat least one moiety corresponding to formula (II):

in which

-   -   R¹ and R³, which may be identical or different, are as defined        above for formula (I),    -   R⁷ represents a group as defined above for R¹ and R³, or        represents the group of formula —X-G-R⁹ in which X and G are as        defined above for formula (I) and R⁹ represents a hydrogen atom        or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C₁ to        C₅₀ hydrocarbon-based group optionally comprising in its chain        one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted        with one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxyl        groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or        more C₁ to C₄ alkyl groups,    -   R⁸ represents the group of formula —X-G-R⁹ in which X, G and R⁹        are as defined above,    -   m₁ is an integer ranging from 1 to 998, and    -   m₂ is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.

According to the invention, the polymer used as gelling agent may be ahomopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identicalmoieties, in particular moieties of formula (I) or of formula (II).

According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymerconsisting of a copolymer comprising several different moieties offormula (I), that is to say a polymer in which at least one of thegroups R¹, R², R³, R⁴, X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of themoieties. The copolymer may also be formed from several moieties offormula (II), in which at least one of the groups R¹, R³, R⁷, R⁸, m₁ andm₂ is different in at least one of the moieties.

It is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one moiety offormula (I) and at least one moiety of formula (II), the moieties offormula (I) and the moieties of formula (II) possibly being identical toor different from each other.

According to one variant of the invention, it is also possible to use acopolymer furthermore comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based moietycomprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions,chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea,thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinationsthereof. These copolymers may be block copolymers or graft copolymers.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the groups capable ofestablishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of formulae —C(O)NH—and —HN—C(O)—.

In this case, the gelling agent may be a polymer comprising at least onemoiety of formula (III) or (IV):

in which R¹, R², R³, R⁴, X, Y, m and n are as defined above.

Such a moiety may be obtained:

-   -   either by a condensation reaction between a silicone containing        α,ω-carboxylic acid ends and one or more diamines, according to        the following reaction scheme:    -   or by reaction of two molecules of α-unsaturated carboxylic acid        with a diamine according to the following reaction scheme:        followed by the addition of a siloxane to the ethylenic        unsaturations, according to the following scheme:        in which X¹—(CH₂)₂— corresponds to X defined above and Y, R¹,        R², R³, R⁴ and m are as defined above;    -   or by reaction of a silicone containing α,ω-NH₂ ends and a        diacid of formula HOOC—Y—COOH according to the following        reaction scheme:

In these polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m is preferably in therange from 1 to 700, more preferably from 15 to 500 and better stillfrom 15 to 45, and n is in particular in the range from 1 to 500,preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25,

-   -   X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain containing        from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular 3 to 10 carbon        atoms, and        -   Y is preferably an alkylene chain that is linear or branched            or that possibly comprises rings and/or unsaturations,            containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 1            to 20 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon            atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms.

In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y canoptionally contain in its alkylene portion at least one of the followingelements:

-   -   1) 1 to 5 amide, urea or carbamate groups,    -   2) a C₅ or C₆ cycloalkyl group, and    -   3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3        identical or different C₁ to C₃ alkyl groups.

In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups may also be substitutedwith at least one element chosen from the group consisting of:

-   -   a hydroxyl group,    -   a C₃ to C₈ cycloalkyl group,    -   one to three C₁ to C₄₀ alkyl groups,    -   a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C₁ to C₃        alkyl groups,    -   a C₁ to C₃ hydroxyalkyl group, and    -   a C₁ to C₆ aminoalkyl group.

In these formulae (III) and (IV), Y may also represent:

in which R⁵ represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents agroup of formula:

in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10,and R¹⁰ is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R¹, R²,R³ and R⁴.

In formulae (III) and (IV), R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ preferably represent,independently, a linear or branched C₁ to C₄₀ alkyl group, preferably aCH₃, C₂H₅, n-C₃H₇ or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or aphenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethylgroups.

As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical ordifferent moieties of formula (III) or (IV).

Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several moieties offormula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, i.e. a polyamidecorresponding to the formula:

in which X, Y, n and R¹ to R⁴ have the meanings given above, m₁ and m₂,which are different, are chosen in the range from 1 to 1 000, and p isan integer ranging from 2 to 300.

In this formula, the moieties may be structured to form either a blockcopolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer. In thiscopolymer, the moieties may be not only of different lengths, but alsoof different chemical structures, for example containing differentgroups Y. In this case, the copolymer may correspond to the formula:

in which R¹ to R⁴, X, Y, m₁, m₂, n and p have the meanings given aboveand Y¹ is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y. Aspreviously, the various moieties may be structured to form either ablock copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.

In this first embodiment of the invention, the gelling agent may alsoconsist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide containing siliconeunits may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chainscontaining amide groups. Such polymers may be synthesized withtrifunctional amines.

In this case, the copolymer may comprise at least one moiety of formula:

in which X¹ and X², which are identical or different, have the meaninggiven for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T areas defined in formula (I), R¹¹ to R¹⁸ are groups chosen from the samegroup as R¹ to R⁴, m₁ and m₂ are numbers in the range from 1 to 1000,and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.

In formula (VII), it is preferred that:

-   -   p is in the range from 1 to 25 and better still from 1 to 7,    -   R¹¹ to R¹⁸ are methyl groups,    -   T corresponds to one of the following formulae:        in which R¹⁹ is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the        groups defined for R¹ to R⁴, and R²⁰, R²¹ and R²² are,        independently, linear or branched alkylene groups, and more        preferably corresponds to the formula:        in particular with R²⁰, R²¹ and R²² representing —CH₂—CH₂—,    -   m₁ and m₂ are in the range from 15 to 500 and better still from        15 to 45,    -   X¹ and X² represent —(CH₂)₁₀—, and    -   Y represents —CH₂—.

These polyamides containing a grafted silicone moiety of formula (VII)may be copolymerized with polyamide-silicones of formula (II) to formblock copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers. Theweight percentage of grafted silicone moieties (VII) in the copolymermay range from 0.5% to 30% by weight.

According to the invention, as has been seen previously, the siloxaneunits may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they mayalso be present in grafted or pendent chains. In the main chain, thesiloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In thependent or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually orin segments.

According to the invention, the preferred siloxane-based polyamides are:

-   -   polyamides of formula (III) in which m is from 15 to 50;    -   mixtures of two or more polyamides in which at least one        polyamide has a value of m in the range from 15 to 50 and at        least one polyamide has a value of m in the range from 30 to 50;    -   polymers of formula (V) with m₁ chosen in the range from 15 to        50 and m₂ chosen in the range from 30 to 500 with the portion        corresponding to m₁ representing 1% to 99% by weight of the        total weight of the polyamide and the portion corresponding to        m₂ representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the        polyamide;    -   mixtures of polyamide of formula (III) combining    -   1) 80% to 99% by weight of a polyamide in which n is equal to 2        to 10 and in particular 3 to 6, and    -   2) 1% to 20% of a polyamide in which n is in the range from 5 to        500 and in particular from 6 to 100;        -   polyamides corresponding to formula (VI) in which at least            one of the groups Y and Y¹ contains at least one hydroxyl            substituent;        -   polyamides of formula (III) synthesized with at least one            portion of an activated diacid (diacid chloride, dianhydride            or diester) instead of the diacid;        -   polyamides of formula (III) in which X represents —(CH₂)₃—            or —(CH₂)₁₀; and        -   polyamides of formula (III) in which the polyamides end with            a monofunctional chain chosen from the group consisting of            monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional            alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty            amines, such as, for example, octylamine, octanol, stearic            acid and stearyl alcohol.

According to the invention, the ends of the polymer chains may end with:

-   -   a C₁ to C₅₀ alkyl ester group by introducing a C₁ to C₅₀        monoalcohol during the synthesis,    -   a C₁ to C₅₀ alkylamide group by taking as stopping group a        monoacid if the silicone is α,ω-diaminated, or a monoamine if        the silicone is an α,ω-dicarboxylic acid.

According to one embodiment variant of the invention, it is possible touse a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon-basedpolyamide, i.e. a copolymer comprising moieties of formula (III) or (IV)and hydrocarbon-based polyamide moieties. In this case, thepolyamide-silicone moieties may be arranged at the ends of thehydrocarbon-based polyamide.

Polyamide-based gelling agents containing silicones may be produced bysilylic amidation of polyamides based on fatty acid dimer. This approachinvolves the reaction of free acid sites existing on a polyamide as endsites, with oligosiloxane-monoamines and/or oligosiloxane-diamines(amidation reaction), or alternatively with oligosiloxane alcohols oroligosiloxane diols (esterification reaction). The esterificationreaction requires the presence of acid catalysts, as is known in theart. It is desirable for the polyamide containing free acid sites, usedfor the amidation or esterification reaction, to have a relatively highnumber of acid end groups (for example polyamides with high acidnumbers, for example from 15 to 20).

For the amidation of the free acid sites of the hydrocarbon-basedpolyamides, siloxane diamines with 1 to 300, more particularly 2 to 50and better still 2, 6, 9.5, 12, 13.5, 23 or 31 siloxane groups, may beused for the reaction with hydrocarbon-based polyamides based on fattyacid dimers. Siloxane diamines containing 13.5 siloxane groups arepreferred, and the best results are obtained with the siloxane diaminecontaining 13.5 siloxane groups and polyamides containing high numbersof carboxylic acid end groups.

The reactions may be carried out in xylene to extract the water producedfrom the solution by azeotropic distillation, or at higher temperatures(about 180 to 200° C.) without solvent. Typically, the efficacy of theamidation and the reaction rates decrease when the siloxane diamine islonger, that is to say when the number of siloxane groups is higher.Free amine sites may be blocked after the initial amidation reaction ofthe diaminosiloxanes by reacting them either with a siloxane acid, orwith an organic acid such as benzoic acid.

For the esterification of the free acid sites on the polyamides, thismay be performed in boiling xylene with about 1% by weight, relative tothe total weight of the reagents, of para-toluenesulphonic acid ascatalyst.

These reactions carried out on the carboxylic acid end groups of thepolyamide lead to the incorporation of silicone moieties only at theends of the polymer chain.

It is also possible to prepare a copolymer of polyamide-silicone, usinga polyamide containing free amine groups, by amidation reaction with asiloxane containing an acid group.

It is also possible to prepare a gelling agent based on a copolymerbetween a hydrocarbon-based polyamide and a silicone polyamide, bytransamidation of a polyamide having, for example, an ethylenediamineconstituent, with an oligosiloxane-α,ω-diamine, at high temperature (forexample 200 to 300° C.), to carry out a transamidation such that theethylenediamine component of the original polyamide is replaced with theoligosiloxane diamine.

The copolymer of hydrocarbon-based polyamide and of polyamide-siliconemay also be a graft copolymer comprising a hydrocarbon-based polyamidebackbone with pendent oligosiloxane groups.

This may be obtained, for example:

-   -   by hydrosilylation of unsaturated bonds in polyamides based on        fatty acid dimers;    -   by silylation of the amide groups of a polyamide; or    -   by silylation of unsaturated polyamides by means of an        oxidation, that is to say by oxidizing the unsaturated groups        into alcohols or diols, to form hydroxyl groups that are reacted        with siloxane carboxylic acids or siloxane alcohols. The        olefinic sites of the unsaturated polyamides may also be        epoxidized and the epoxy groups may then be reacted with        siloxane amines or siloxane alcohols.

According to a second embodiment of the invention, the gelling agentconsists of a homopolymer or a copolymer comprising urethane or ureagroups.

As previously, the polymer may comprise polyorganosiloxane moietiescontaining two or more urethane and/or urea groups, either in thebackbone of the polymer or on side chains or as pendent groups.

The polymers comprising at least two urethane and/or urea groups in thebackbone may be polymers comprising at least one moiety corresponding tothe following formula:

in which R¹, R², R³, R⁴, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above forformula (I), and U represents —O— or —NH—, such that:

corresponds to a urethane or urea group.

In this formula (VIII), Y may be a linear or branched C₁ to C₄₀ alkylenegroup, optionally substituted with a C₁ to C₁₅ alkyl group or a C₅ toC₁₀ aryl group. Preferably, a —(CH₂)₆— group is used.

Y may also represent a C₅ to C₁₂ cycloaliphatic or aromatic group thatmay be substituted with a C₁ to C₁₅ alkyl group or a C₅ to C₁₀ arylgroup, for example a radical chosen from the methylene-4,4-biscyclohexylradical, the radical derived from isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4- and2,6-tolylenes, 1,5-naphthylene, p-phenylene and 4,4′-biphenylenemethane.Generally, it is preferred for Y to represent a linear or branched C₁ toC₄₀ alkylene radical or a C₄ to C₁₂ cycloalkylene radical.

Y may also represent a polyurethane or polyurea block corresponding tothe condensation of several diisocyanate molecules with one or moremolecules of coupling agents of the diol or diamine type. In this case,Y comprises several urethane or urea groups in the alkylene chain.

It may correspond to the formula:

in which B¹ is a group chosen from the groups given above for Y, U is—O— or —NH— and B² is chosen from:

-   -   linear or branched C₁ to C₄₀ alkylene groups, which can        optionally bear an ionizable group such as a carboxylic acid or        sulphonic acid group, or a neutralizable or quaternizable        tertiary amine group,    -   C₅ to C₁₂ cycloalkylene groups, optionally bearing alkyl        substituents, for example one to three methyl or ethyl groups,        or alkylene substituents, for example the diol radical:        cyclohexanedimethanol,    -   phenylene groups that may optionally bear C₁ to C₃ alkyl        substituents, and    -   groups of formula:        in which T is a hydrocarbon-based trivalent radical possibly        containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulphur and        nitrogen and R⁵ is a polyorganosiloxane chain or a linear or        branched C₁ to C₅₀ alkyl chain.

T can represent, for example:

with w being an integer ranging from 1 to 10 and R⁵ being apolyorganosiloxane chain.

When Y is a linear or branched C₁ to C₄₀ alkylene group, the —(CH₂)₂—and —(CH₂)₆— groups are preferred.

In the formula given above for Y, d may be an integer ranging from 0 to5, preferably from 0 to 3 and more preferably equal to 1 or 2.

Preferably, B² is a linear or branched C₁ to C₄₀ alkylene group, inparticular —(CH₂)₂— or —(CH₂)₆— or the group:

with R⁵ being a polyorganosiloxane chain.

As previously, the polymer constituting the gelling agent may be formedfrom silicone urethane and/or silicone urea moieties of different lengthand/or constitution, and may be in the form of block or randomcopolymers.

According to the invention, the silicone may also comprise urethaneand/or urea groups no longer in the backbone but as side branches.

In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one moiety of formula:

in which R¹, R², R³, m₁ and m₂ have the meanings given above for formula(I),

-   -   U represents O or NH,    -   R²³ represents a C₁ to C₄₀ alkylene group, optionally comprising        one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, or a phenylene        group, and    -   R²⁴ is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or        unsaturated C₁ to C₅₀ alkyl groups, and phenyl groups optionally        substituted with one to three C₁ to C₃ alkyl groups.

The polymers comprising at least one moiety of formula (X) containsiloxane units and urea or urethane groups, and they may be used asgelling agents in the compositions of the invention.

The siloxane polymers may have a single urea or urethane group perbranch or may have branches containing two urea or urethane groups, oralternatively they may contain a mixture of branches containing one ureaor urethane group and branches containing two urea or urethane groups.

They may be obtained from branched polysiloxanes, comprising one or twoamino groups per branch, by reacting these polysiloxanes withmonoisocyanates.

As examples of starting polymers of this type containing amino anddiamino branches, mention may be made of the polymers corresponding tothe following formulae:

In these formulae, the symbol “/” indicates that the segments may be ofdifferent lengths and in a random order, and R represents a linearaliphatic group preferably containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms and betterstill 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Such polymers containing branching may be formed by reacting a siloxanepolymer, containing at least three amino groups per polymer molecule,with a compound containing only one monofunctional group (for example anacid, an isocyanate or an isothiocyanate) to react this monofunctionalgroup with one of the amino groups and to form the groups capable ofestablishing hydrogen interactions. The amino groups may be on sidechains extending from the main chain of the siloxane polymer, such thatthe groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are formed onthese side chains, or alternatively the amino groups may be at the endsof the main chain, such that the groups capable of hydrogen interactionwill be end groups of the polymer.

As a procedure for forming a polymer containing siloxane moieties andgroups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, mention may bemade of the reaction of a siloxane diamine and of a diisocyanate in asilicone solvent so as to provide a gel directly. The reaction may beperformed in a silicone fluid, the resulting product being dissolved inthe silicone fluid, at high temperature, the temperature of the systemthen being reduced to form the gel.

The polymers that are preferred for incorporation into the compositionsaccording to the present invention are siloxane-urea copolymers that arelinear and that contain urea groups as groups capable of establishinghydrogen interactions in the backbone of the polymer.

As an illustration of a polysiloxane ending with four urea groups,mention may be made of the polymer of formula:

in which Ph is a phenyl group and n is a number from 0 to 300, inparticular from 0 to 100, for example 50.

This polymer is obtained by reacting the following polysiloxanecontaining amino groups:

with phenyl isocyanate.

The polymers of formula (VIII) comprising urea or urethane groups in thechain of the silicone polymer may be obtained by reaction between asilicone containing α,ω-NH₂ or —OH end groups, of formula:

in which m, R¹, R², R³, R⁴ and X are as defined for formula (I), and adiisocyanate OCN—Y—NCO in which Y has the meaning given in formula (I);and optionally a diol or diamine coupling agent of formula H₂N—B²—NH₂ orHO—B²—OH, in which B² is as defined in formula (IX).

According to the stoichiometric proportions between the two reagents,diisocyanate and coupling agent, Y may have the formula (IX) with dequal to 0 or d equal to 1 to 5.

As in the case of the polyamide silicones of formula (II) or (III), itis possible to use in the invention polyurethane or polyurea siliconescontaining moieties of different length and structure, in particularmoieties whose lengths differ by the number of silicone moieties. Inthis case, the copolymer may correspond, for example, to the formula:

in which R¹, R², R³, R⁴, X, Y and U are as defined for formula (VIII)and m₁, m₂, n and p are as defined for formula (V).

Branched polyurethane or polyurea silicones may also be obtained using,instead of the diisocyanate OCN—Y—NCO, a triisocyanate of formula:

A polyurethane or polyurea silicone containing branches comprising anorganosiloxane chain with groups capable of establishing hydrogeninteractions is thus obtained. Such a polymer comprises, for example, amoiety corresponding to the formula:

in which X¹ and X², which are identical or different, have the meaninggiven for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T areas defined in formula (I), R¹¹ to R¹⁸ are groups chosen from the samegroup as R¹ to R⁴, m₁ and m₂ are numbers in the range from 1 to 1 000,and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.

As in the case of the polyamides, this copolymer can also comprisepolyurethane silicone moieties without branching.

In this second embodiment of the invention, the siloxane-based polyureasand polyurethanes that are preferred are:

-   -   polymers of formula (VIII) in which m is from 15 to 50;    -   mixtures of two or more polymers in which at least one polymer        has a value of m in the range from 15 to 50 and at least one        polymer has a value of m in the range from 30 to 50;    -   polymers of formula (XII) with m₁ chosen in the range from 15 to        50 and m₂ chosen in the range from 30 to 500 with the portion        corresponding to m₁ representing 1% to 99% by weight of the        total weight of the polymer and the portion corresponding to m₂        representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the        polymer;    -   mixtures of polymer of formula (VIII) combining    -   1) 80% to 99% by weight of a polymer in which n is equal to 2 to        10 and in particular 3 to 6, and    -   2) 1% to 20% of a polymer in which n is in the range from 5 to        500 and in particular from 6 to 100,        -   copolymers comprising two moieties of formula (VIII) in            which at least one of the groups Y contains at least one            hydroxyl substituent;        -   polymers of formula (VIII) synthesized with at least one            portion of an activated diacid (diacid chloride, dianhydride            or diester) instead of the diacid;        -   polymers of formula (VIII) in which X represents —(CH₂)₃— or            —(CH₂)₁₀—; and        -   polymers of formula (VIII) in which the polymers end with a            monofunctional chain chosen from the group consisting of            monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional            alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty            amines, such as, for example, octylamine, octanol, stearic            acid and stearyl alcohol.

As in the case of the polyamides, copolymers of polyurethane or polyureasilicone and of hydrocarbon-based polyurethane or polyurea may be usedin the invention by performing the reaction for synthesizing the polymerin the presence of an α,ω-difunctional block of non-silicone nature, forexample a polyester, a polyether or a polyolefin.

As has been seen previously, gelling agents consisting of homopolymersor copolymers of the invention may contain siloxane moieties in the mainchain of the polymer and groups capable of establishing hydrogeninteractions, either in the main chain of the polymer or at the endsthereof, or on side chains or branches of the main chain. This maycorrespond to the following five arrangements:

in which the continuous line is the main chain of the siloxane polymerand the squares represent the groups capable of establishing hydrogeninteractions.

In case (1), the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactionsare arranged at the ends of the main chain. In case (2), two groupscapable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged at each ofthe ends of the main chain.

In case (3), the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactionsare arranged within the main chain in repeating moieties.

In cases (4) and (5), these are copolymers in which the groups capableof establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged on branches of themain chain of a first series of moieties that are copolymerized withmoieties not comprising groups capable of establishing hydrogeninteractions. The values n, x and y are such that the polymer has thedesired properties in terms of an agent for gelling fatty phases basedon silicone oil.

According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid fatty phasecontaining at least one silicone oil, is obtained with the aid of one ormore of the polymers mentioned above, in combination with one or morenon-polymeric organogelling agents.

As examples of polymers that may be used, mention may be made of thesilicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 and 2 ofdocument U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680.

The polymers and copolymers used in the gelling system of thecomposition of the invention advantageously have a softening point from40 to 190° C. Preferably, they have a softening point ranging from 50 to140° C. and better still from 70° C. to 120° C. This softening point islower than that of the known structuring polymers, which facilitates theuse of the polymers that are the subject of the invention, allows theuse of volatile oils and limits the deteriorations of the liquid fattyphase.

They have good solubility in silicone oils and produce macroscopicallyhomogeneous compositions. Preferably, they have an average molecularmass from 500 to 200 000, for example from 80 000 to 200 000, preferablyfrom 2 000 to 30 000.

Non-Polymeric Organogelling Agent

The composition according to the invention contains one or moreorganogelling agents. This or these organogelling agent(s) make itpossible to reinforce the mechanical properties of the composition, inparticular the properties of resistance to shearing when it is in theform of a stick. This reinforcement results in a stick which isresistant to the shearing produced during the application of thecomposition to the lips or the skin, but also to the superficial bodygrowths. Thus, it is possible to manufacture a lipstick having a stickdiameter of 12.7 mm, which diameter corresponds to that customarily usedin conventional lipsticks.

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least oneorganogelling agent. An organogelling agent is defined here ascomprising a non-polymeric organic compound whose molecules may becapable of establishing, with each other, at least one physicalinteraction leading to self-aggregation of the molecules with formationof a three-dimensional macromolecular network which may be responsiblefor the gelling of the liquid fatty phase. The network can result fromthe formation of a network of fibrils (due to the stacking oraggregation of the organic gelling molecules), immobilizing themolecules of the liquid fatty phase. Depending on the nature of theorganogelling agent, the interconnected fibrils have variable sizeswhich may range from a few nanometres to 1 μm or even severalmicrometres. These fibrils can occasionally combine to form ribbons orcolumns.

The term “gelling” means a thickening of the medium which may lead to agelatinous consistency and even to a rigid, solid consistency which doesnot run under its own weight. The capacity to form this network offibrils, and thus the gelling, depends on the nature (or the chemicalcategory) of the organogelling agent, the nature of the substituentscarried by its molecules for a given chemical category, and the natureof the liquid fatty phase. For example, this gelling is reversible underthe action of an external stimulus such as temperature.

The physical interactions are diverse but may exclude cocrystallization.These physical interactions are for example interactions chosen fromself-complementary hydrogen interactions, π interactions betweenunsaturated nuclei, dipolar interactions, and coordination bonds withorganometallic derivatives. The establishment of these interactions canoften be promoted by the architecture of the molecule, for example bynuclei, unsaturations, and the presence of asymmetric carbon. Ingeneral, each molecule of an organogelling agent can establish severaltypes of physical interaction with a neighbouring molecule. Thus, in oneembodiment, the molecules of the organogelling agent according to theinvention may comprise at least one group capable of establishing ahydrogen bond, for example at least two groups capable of establishing ahydrogen bond; at least one aromatic nucleus, for example at least twoaromatic nuclei; at least one bond with ethylenic unsaturation; and/orat least one asymmetric carbon. The groups capable of forming a hydrogenbond may be chosen, for example, from the hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine,carboxylic acid, amide, benzyl, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate,urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups.

The organogelling agents of the invention may be soluble in the liquidfatty phase at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. They may besolid or liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

Organogelling agents which may be used in the invention are, forexample, those described in the document “Specialist Surfactants”published by D. Robb, 1997, pp. 209-263, chapter 8, by P. Terech [12],and the documents FR-A-2 796 276 [13] and FR-A-2 811 552 [14]. Theorganogelling agents described in these documents are, for example,chosen from:

-   -   hydroxylated fatty carboxylic acids having a linear or branched,        aliphatic carbon chain containing, in one embodiment, at least 8        carbon atoms such as at least 12 carbon atoms, for example        12-hydroxystearic acid and 12-hydroxyoleic acid, and their salts        such as the alkali metal salts (in particular the Li, Na and K        salts) and the alkaline-earth metal salts (for example the        magnesium salts) or esters thereof resulting from esterification        with a monoalcohol or a polyol having a saturated or        unsaturated, linear or cyclic chain of 1 to 6 carbon atoms;    -   amides of carboxylic acids such as tricarboxylic acids, for        example cyclohexanetricarboxamides (see [13]), these amides        corresponding, for example, to the formula (XV) given below;    -   amides or esters of amino acids, for example esters of alanine        and amides of valine (such as those described in the book        “Specialist Surfactants”) [12];    -   amides of N-acylamino acids, for example the diamides resulting        from the action of an N-acylamino acid with amines containing        from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in        WO-93/23008 [15], for example N-acylglutamides in which the acyl        group is a C₈ to C₂₂ alkyl chain, and the dibutylamide of        N-laurylglutamic acid, such as the product sold or manufactured        by the company AJINOMOTO under the name GP-1;    -   diamides having hydrocarbon chains each containing from 1 to 22        carbon atoms, for example from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, these        hydrocarbon chains being optionally substituted with ester, urea        or fluoro groups (see [14]), these diamides being for example        those of formula (XIV) given below; and such as those resulting        from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, for example        trans-diaminocyclohexane, and of an acid chloride;    -   amides or amines of steroids, such as those of deoxycholic,        cholic, apocholic or lithocholic acids, and salts thereof, for        example D-17,17-dipropyl-17a-aza-5α-homoandrostan-3β-ol or        D-17,17-dipropyl-17a-aza-5α-homoandrostan-3β-ol 17a-oxy;    -   compounds containing several aromatic nuclei (2 or 3), such as        the anthrylic derivatives comprising at least two alkyl chains        containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example        2,3-bis(n-decyloxy)anthracene or        2,3-bis(n-decyloxy)anthraquinone, or comprising a steroid group,        for example cholesteryl 4-(2-anthryloxy)butanoate or cholesteryl        anthraquinone-2-carboxylate and derivatives thereof;    -   azobenzene steroids such as those described in the book        “Specialist Surfactants” [12];    -   organometallic compounds, for example mononuclear copper        β-diketonate (the octasubstituted copper complex of        bis(3,4-nonyloxybenzoyl)methane), binuclear copper        tetracarboxylates or Zn (II) complexes of trisubstituted        (para-carboxyphenyl)porphyrine;    -   surfactants in salt form comprising at least two linear or        branched alkyl chains, such as alkali metal or aluminium alkyl        phosphates comprising two alkyl chains containing from 8 to 30        carbon atoms, for example the aluminium salt of hexadecyl        phosphate (C₁₆DP-Al) or bis(2-ethylhexyl)phosphate and alkali        metal (Na) salts thereof, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sulphosuccinate and        alkali metal (Na) salts thereof;    -   benzylidene sorbitols or alditols and derivatives thereof, for        example 1,3:2,4-di-o-benzylidene-D-sorbitol;    -   cyclodipeptides which are cyclic condensates of two amino acids        such as those described in the book “Specialist Surfactants”        [12];    -   cyclic compounds or alkylene compounds comprising two urea or        urethane groups such as dialkylurea cyclohexane, having for        example the formula (XVI) given below;    -   alkylaryl derivatives of cyclohexanol in which the alkyl chain        is linear or branched and comprises from 1 to 22 carbon atoms,        and the aryl part is for example a phenyl group, these        derivatives being for example 4-tert-butyl-1-phenylcyclohexanol;    -   calixarenes such as those mentioned in the book “Specialist        Surfactants” [12];    -   combinations of 2,4,6-triaminopyrimidines which are substituted        with an alkyl chain and of dialkylbarbituric acid, the alkyl        chains thereof being linear or branched and comprising from 1 to        22 carbon atoms;    -   the organogelling agents defined in the document WO-A-01/07007        [16] corresponding to the general formula (XVII):        Q-O—W—(CHOH)—W¹—O-Q¹  (XVII)    -   in which W and W¹, which may be identical or different, are        chosen from —CH₂— and —CO—, and in which Q and Q¹, which may be        identical or different, are a hydrocarbon chain chosen from        saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chains        containing at least 6 carbon atoms, and in which s is an integer        from 2 to 4; such as the compounds in which W═W¹=—CH₂— and s=2        and the compounds in which W═W¹=—CO— and s=4;    -   gluconamide derivatives such as those described in the        article R. J. H. Hafkamp, Chem. Commun., (1997), pages 545-46        [17], and in the article J. Org. Chem., vol. 64, No. 2;        412-26 (1999) [18], corresponding to the formula (XVIII):        R²⁵—NH—CO—[CH(OH)]₄—CH₂R²⁶  (XVIII)    -   in which R²⁵ is a hydrocarbon chain chosen from saturated or        unsaturated, linear, branched and cyclic hydrocarbon chains        having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, for example octyl, it being        possible for this hydrocarbon chain to optionally comprise at        least one heteroatom such as N, O and S, and in which R²⁶        represents —O—CO—R²⁷ or —O—R²⁷ with R²⁷ being chosen from linear        and branched alkyl chains containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms,        C₅-C₈ cycloaliphatic chains and aromatic chains, C₅-C₈        heterocycles comprising N, O or S atoms, and for example the        compounds in which R²⁶ is a saturated or unsaturated C₅-C₈        heterocycle comprising an N, O or S atom such that R²⁶        represents the imidazolyl group,    -   cyclic ether derivatives of the compounds of formula (XVIII)        having the formula (XIX):    -   in which R²⁵ and R²⁶ have the same meaning as in formula        (XVIII);    -   provided that R²⁵ and R²⁶ are such that they allow the gelling        of the liquid fatty phase;    -   diamide, diurea or diurethane derivatives of amino acids such        as:    -   a) the bisoxalylamides of amino acids cited in the article by M.        Jokic, J. Chem. Soc., Chem. Commun., pages 1723-24 (1995) [19],        of formula:        HOCO—CH(R²⁸)—NH—CO—CO—NH—CH(R²⁹)—COOH  (XX)    -   in which R²⁸ and R²⁹, which may be identical or different, are a        characteristic group of the amino acid, chosen for example from:        —CH₂—CH(CH₃)₂; —C₆H₅; —CH₂—C₆H₅; —CH(CH₃)₂;    -   b) the amide and urea derivatives of a lysine ester such as        those mentioned in the article by K. Hanabusa, Chemistry        Letters, pp. 1070-71, 2000 [20], such as the ethyl or methyl        ester of N^(ε)-lauroyl-N-stearylaminocarbonyl-L-lysine and        derivatives having the formula:        C¹¹—H₂₃—CO—NH—(CH₂)₄—CH(COOR³⁰)—NH—CO—R³⁰    -   in which R³⁰=—CH₃ or —C₂H₅ and R³¹=—NH—(CH₂)₁₇—CH₃ or        —NH—(CH₂)_(n)—CH₃ with n=1 to 30.    -   c) diamide derivatives of benzenedicarboxylic acids and of        valine such as those mentioned in the article by K. Hanabusa,        Chemistry Letters, pp. 767-8, 1999 [21], corresponding for        example to the formulae:    -   in which -L-Val- represents:        —NH—CH [CH(CH₃)₂)]—CO—;    -   monoalkyloxamides such as those described by X. Luo, Chem.        Commun., pp. 2091-92, 2000 [22], for example of formula:        R³²—NH—CO—CO—NH—R³³    -   in which R³² and R³³, which may be identical or different, are a        hydrocarbon chain chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear,        branched and cyclic hydrocarbon chains having from 1 to 30        carbon atoms; and which may contain one or more heteroatoms such        as O, N and S;        -   bolaamphiphiles with a 1-glucosamide head such as            N,N′-bis(β-D-glucopyranosyl)-n-alkane-1-dicarboxamide, such            as the compounds mentioned in the article by T. Shimizu, J.            Am. Chem. Soc., 119, pp. 2812-18, 1997 [23], corresponding            to the formula (XXI):    -   in which n is an integer from 2 to 30, R³⁴ is —H or —CO—R³⁵ in        which R³⁵ is a C₁-C₂₀ alkyl group, for example the compound in        which R³⁴ represents —CO—CH₃;        -   bolaamphiphilic amides derived from amido acids mentioned            by K. Hanabusa, Adv. Mater., 9, No. 14, 1997, pp. 1095-1097            [24], corresponding to the formulae:        -   2-alkyl-2-ammoniumisobutyl acetate p-toluenesulphonate salts            such as those described by K. Hanabusa, Colloïd Polym. Sci.,            276, pp. 252-59, 1998 [25], corresponding to the formula            (XXII):            p-CH₃—C₆H₄—SO₃ ⁻ ⁺H₃N—CH(R³⁷)—CO—OR³⁸  (XXII)    -   in which R³⁷ represents:    -   R³⁸ represents:        -   fatty esters of cellobiose such as those mentioned in            WO-A-00/61080 [26] and WO-A-00/61081 [27] of formula            (XXIII):    -   in which R³⁹=—CO—R⁴⁰ and R⁴⁰ represents an alkyl or alkylene        group of 5 to 12 carbon atoms;        -   the organogelling agents having two urea groups and two            carbamate groups mentioned in U.S. Pat. No. 6,156,325 [28]            of formula (XXIV):    -   in which R⁴¹ is an alkyl group of 4 to 42 carbon atoms        optionally containing oxygen atoms, and R⁴² and R⁴³, which may        be identical or different, represent C₂ to C₂₀ alkylene, C₅ to        C₁₀ cycloalkylene or C₅ to C₁₀ cycloarylene groups;        -   diamides of formula (XXV) or (XXVI):            R⁴⁴—X—CO—NH—R⁴⁵—NH—CO—X—R⁴⁴  (XXV)            or            R⁴⁴—CO—NH—R⁴⁵—NH—CO—R⁴⁴  (XXVI)    -   in which the groups R⁴⁴, which may be identical or different,        represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₈-C₆₀        hydrocarbon chain, the group(s) R⁴⁴ optionally comprising a        hydroxyl group or at least one heteroatom such as N, O, S or Si,        R⁴⁵ is a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from linear, branched        and cyclic C₁ to C₅₀ groups and C₅ to C₈ arylene groups        optionally substituted with one or more C₁-C₄ alkyl groups, and        X represents —O— or —NH—.

It is also possible to use mixtures of the various organogelling agentsdescribed above.

According to one embodiment, the organogelling agent is chosen fromamides of amino acids such as N-acylamino acids andcyclohexanetricarboxamides, and mixtures thereof.

Organogelling Agents of Formula (XIV)

According to the invention, the organogelling agent may be a compound offormula (XIV) below:R⁴⁶—CO—NH-A-NH—CO—R⁴⁷  (XIV)

-   -   in which R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷, which may be identical or different,        represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon chain chosen from        saturated and unsaturated, linear, branched and cyclic        hydrocarbon chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for        example from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 14 carbon        atoms, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen        from aryl (—C₆H₅), ester (—COOR⁴⁸ with R⁴⁸ being an alkyl group        of 2 to 12 carbon atoms), amide (—CONHR⁴⁸ with R⁴⁸ as defined        above), urethane (—OCONHR⁴⁸ with R⁴⁸ as defined above), and urea        (—NHCONHR⁴⁸ with R⁴⁸ as defined above) groups; and/or optionally        containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N;        and/or optionally substituted with 1 to 4 halogen atoms, in        particular fluorine atoms, and/or 1 to 3 hydroxyl radicals,    -   provided that R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷ are not both a hydrogen atom, and    -   A is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear, cyclic and        branched hydrocarbon chains containing from 1 to 18 carbon        atoms, for example from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, in particular from        4 to 12 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one        group chosen from aryl (—C₆H₅), ester (—COOR⁴⁸), amide        (—CONHR⁴⁸), urethane (—OCONHR⁴⁸) and urea (—NHCONHR⁴⁸) groups;        and/or optionally containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from        O, S and N; and/or optionally substituted with 1 to 4 halogen        atoms, such as fluorine atoms, and/or 1 to 3 hydroxyl radicals.

In formula (XIV), the expression “unsaturated hydrocarbon chain” means achain which comprises at least one C═C double bond or at least one C≡Ctriple bond, it being possible for the chain to be also optionallysubstituted with at least one group chosen from aryl, ester, amide,urethane and urea groups; and/or to optionally comprise at least oneheteroatom chosen from O, S and N; and/or to be optionally substitutedwith at least one fluorine atom and/or one hydroxyl radical. Theexpression “hydrocarbon chain comprising an oxygen, sulphur or nitrogenatom” in formula (XIV) includes in particular a hydrocarbon chaincomprising a carbonyl (C═O), amine (—NH₂ or —NH—), thiol (—SH),thioether or ether group.

The compounds correspond, for example, to formula (XIV) in which:

-   -   1)—A is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, but non-aromatic,        optionally branched hydrocarbon nuclei containing from 4 to 12        carbon atoms, for example from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, optionally        substituted with the substituents mentioned above and/or        optionally comprising at least one heteroatom and/or being        optionally substituted with at least one halogen and/or one        hydroxyl radical;        -   R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷, which may be identical or different, are chosen            from a hydrogen atom and hydrocarbon chains chosen from            saturated and unsaturated, linear, branched and cyclic            chains containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, for example            from 12 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular a saturated linear            hydrocarbon chain; or    -   2)—A is a saturated hydrocarbon chain chosen from saturated,        linear and branched hydrocarbon chains containing from 2 to 18        carbon atoms, for example 3 to 12 carbon atoms, optionally        substituted with the substituents mentioned above, and/or        optionally comprising at least one heteroatom and/or being        optionally substituted with at least one halogen and/or one        hydroxyl radical;        -   R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷, which may be identical or different, are chosen            from a hydrogen atom and a hydrocarbon chain chosen from            saturated and unsaturated, linear, branched and cyclic            hydrocarbon chains such as saturated linear hydrocarbon            chains containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for example            from 11 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular 16 carbon            atoms; or alternatively    -   3)—A is chosen from aryl and aralkyl nuclei containing from 4 to        12 carbon atoms, for example from 5 to 8 carbon atoms,        optionally substituted with the substituents mentioned above        and/or optionally comprising at least one heteroatom and/or        optionally substituted with at least one halogen and/or one        hydroxyl radical;        -   R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷, which may be identical or different, are chosen            from a hydrogen atom and hyrocarbon chains chosen from            saturated and unsaturated, linear, branched and cyclic            hydrocarbon chains, for example a saturated linear            hydrocarbon chain containing from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, for            example from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

A may be for example a divalent radical such as cyclohexylene, ethylene,propylene, isopropylene, butylene, isobutylene, pentylene, hexylene,dodecylene, dodecanylene, benzylene, phenylene, methylphenylene,bisphenylene or naphthalene.

The radicals R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷ may be chosen, independently of each other,from pentyl, hexyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl,heptadecyl, octadecyl, 3-dodecyloxypropionyl, 3-octadecyloxypropionyl,3-dodecyloxypentyl, 3-octadecyloxypentyl and 11-hydroxyheptadecylradicals.

In one embodiment, R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷ are identical.

When A is cyclic, the radicals R⁴⁶—CO—NH and R⁴⁷—CO—NH— may be in theortho, meta or para position. Furthermore, they may be in the cis ortrans position relative to each other.

In one embodiment, the compounds of formula (XIV) are a mixture of cisand trans compounds.

The compounds of formula (XIV) may be chosen from the compoundscorresponding to one of the following formulae:

-   -   in which R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷ are as defined above.

Among the compounds which may be used as organogelling agents in thecomposition of the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned:

-   -   N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane, in particular in        the trans form (compound of formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷=n-C₁₁H₂₃        and A=the divalent radical 1,2-cyclohexylene, also known as        (2-dodecanoylaminocyclohexyl)dodecanamide). This compound is        described in particular by Hanabusa K.; Angew. Chem., 108, 1997,        17, pages 2086-2088 [29];    -   N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,3-diaminocyclohexane, in particular in        the trans form (compound of formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷=n-C₁₁H₂₃        and A=the divalent radical 1,3-cyclohexylene, also known as        (3-dodecanoylaminocyclohexyl)dodecanamide),    -   N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,4-diaminocyclohexane, in particular in        the trans form (compound of formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷=n-C₁₁H₂₃        and A=the divalent radical 1,4-cyclohexylene, also known as        (4-dodecanoylaminocyclohexyl)dodecanamide),    -   N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,2-ethylenediamine, (compound of        formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷=n-C₁₁H₂₃ and A=the divalent radical        1,2-ethylene, also known as        (2-dodecanoylaminoethyl)dodecanamide),    -   N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1-methyl-1,2-ethylenediamine, (compound of        formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷=n-C₁₁H₂₃ and A=the divalent radical        1-methyl-1,2-ethylene, also known as        (2-dodecanoylamino-2-methylethyl)dodecanamide),    -   N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,3-diaminopropane (compound of        formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷=n-C₁₁H₂₃ and A=the divalent radical        propylene, also known as (2-dodecanoylaminopropyl)dodecanamide),    -   N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,12-diaminododecane (compound of        formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷=n-C₁₁H₂₃ and A=the divalent radical        1,12-dodecylene, also known as        (2-dodecanoylaminododecyl)dodecanamide),    -   N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-3,4-diaminotoluene (compound of        formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷=n-C₁₁H₂₃ and A=the divalent radical        1-methyl-3,4-phenylene, also known as        (2-dodecanoylamino-4-methylphenyl)dodecanamide), and mixtures        thereof.

The compounds of formula (XIV) may be prepared according to methods wellknown to persons skilled in the art.

In particular, they may be obtained by reacting a diamine H₂N-A-NH₂ withan acid chloride R⁴⁶COCl and/or R⁴⁷COCl where R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷ have themeanings given above, in an organic solvent medium which is compatiblefor carrying out the reaction (1 mol of acid chloride is used per mol ofdiamine if it is desired to obtain a compound of formula (XIV)containing only one group R⁴⁶ other than a hydrogen atom, or 2 mol ofacid chloride R⁴⁶COCl and/or R⁴⁷COCl, if it is desired to obtain acompound of formula (XIV) in which R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷ are different from ahydrogen atom). The reaction is preferably carried out in the presenceof a base capable of neutralizing the formation of HCl released duringthe reaction. The diamide formed is extracted from the reaction mediumaccording to extraction techniques which are well known to personsskilled in the art.

The compounds of formula (XIV) may be used, alone or in the form of amixture, in the composition of the invention.

Standard Preparation of Compounds of Formula (XIV) with R⁴⁶═R⁴⁷

The diamine and two equivalents of triethylamine are dissolved in 50 mlof tetrahydrofuran (THF). Two equivalents of acyl chloride dissolved inTHF are added and the reaction mixture is heated to the refluxingtemperature of tetrahydrofuran, while monitoring the disappearance ofthe acyl chloride by infrared spectroscopy (typically for the majorityin two hours). The precipitate is removed from the solution byfiltration, the organic phase is concentrated and a liquid/liquidextraction is carried out on the solid compound obtained. The organicphase is then dried and then concentrated and the solid product obtainedis recrystallized.Organogelling Agents of Formula (XV):

-   -   in which the groups R⁴⁸, which are identical or different, are        chosen from a hydrogen atom and saturated, linear and branched        hydrocarbon chains, the said hydrocarbon chains containing from        1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;        -   the groups Z, which are identical or different, each            represent a group chosen from the following groups:            —CO—S—R⁴⁹; —CO—NHR⁴⁹; —NH—COR⁴⁹ and —S—COR⁴⁹; in which the            groups R⁴⁹, which may be identical or different, are chosen            from:        -   a hydrogen atom,        -   an aryl group,        -   an aralkyl group, that is to say an aryl group substituted            with a hydrocarbon chain chosen from saturated, linear and            branched hydrocarbon chains, in which the hydrocarbon chain            contains from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example from 10 to            18 carbon atoms, and        -   a saturated hydrocarbon chain chosen from linear, branched            and cyclic hydrocarbon chains, containing from 1 to 22            carbon atoms, for example from 10 to 18 carbon atoms,            optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from            aryl, ester, amide and urethane groups; and/or optionally            comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S and N;            and/or optionally substituted with at least one fluorine            atom and/or one hydroxyl radical.    -   R⁴⁸ is for example a hydrogen atom.    -   Z is for example the group —CO—NHR⁴⁹ or —NH—COR⁴⁹.    -   R⁴⁹ is for example an aryl group; an aralkyl group in which the        linear or branched alkyl chain contains from 12 to 16 carbon        atoms; or a linear or branched C₁₁-C₁₈ alkyl group.

In one embodiment, Z is a group —CO—NHR⁴⁹ in which R⁴⁹ is chosen fromaryl groups substituted with a linear or branched C₁₁-C₁₆ alkyl chain,unsubstituted linear C₁₁ to C₁₈ alkyl chains and unsubstituted branchedC₁₁ to C₁₈ alkyl chains.

In the compounds of formula (XV), the three substituents represented byZ may be in cis-cis, cis-trans or trans-trans conformation relative toeach other. In particular, at least one of these substituents may beplaced in an equatorial position on the cyclohexane nucleus; for exampleall the substituents Z are placed in an equatorial position.

It is also possible to use, as compound of formula (XV), a mixture ofcis-cis, cis-trans and/or trans-trans compounds.

Among the compounds of formula (XV) which may be used as organogellingagent, alone or in the form of a mixture, in the composition of theinvention, the following compounds may be mentioned:

-   cis-1,3,5-tris(dodecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane,-   cis-1,3,5-tris(octadecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane,-   cis-1,3,5-tris[N-(3,7-dimethyloctyl)aminocarbonyl]-cyclohexane,-   trans-1,3,5-trimethyl-1,3,5-tris(dodecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane,    and-   trans-1,3,5-trimethyl-1,3,5-tris(octadecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane.

The compounds of formula (XV) are well known to persons skilled in theart and may be prepared by conventional methods.

It is also possible to add to the composition an organic compound asdescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,156,325 [28]. Such compounds include ureaurethanes having the following formula:R⁵⁰—O—CO—NH—R⁵¹—NH—CO—NH—R⁵²—NH—CO—NH—R⁵¹—NH—CO—OR⁵⁰where R⁵⁰ represents C_(n)H_(2n+1-) or C_(m)H_(2m+1)(C_(p)H_(2p)O)_(r);n represents an integer having a value of 4 to 22; m represents aninteger having a value of 1 to 18; p represents an integer having avalue of 2 to 4; and r represents an integer having a value of 1 to 10,

-   -   R⁵¹ represents:    -   and R⁵² represents:

As is evident from the above urea urethane formula, the alkyl groups andthe alkyl parts designated for R⁵⁰ are saturated.

Organogelling Agent of Formula (XVI)

According to the invention, the organogelling agent may be at least oneorganogelling agent of formula (XVI):R⁴⁶NHCONHANHCONHR⁴⁶  (XVI)

-   -   in which A and R⁴⁶ have the same meaning as that given for        formula (XIV) given above, that is in which        -   the groups R⁴, which may be identical or different, each            represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon chain chosen from            saturated and unsaturated, linear, branched and cyclic            hydrocarbon chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for            example from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted            with at least one group chosen from aryl (—C₆H₅), ester            (—COOR⁴⁸ where R⁴⁸ is as defined above), amide (—CONHR⁴⁸),            urethane (—OCONHR⁴⁸) and urea (—NHCONHR⁴⁸) groups; and/or            optionally containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O,            S and N; and/or optionally substituted with 1 to 4 hydrogen            atoms, in particular fluorine atoms, and/or 1 to 3 hydroxyl            radicals,    -   provided that at least one R⁴⁶ is other than a hydrogen atom,        and        -   A is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear, cyclic            and branched hydrocarbon chains containing from 1 to 18            carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 12 carbon atoms,            optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from            aryl (—C₆H₅), ester (—COOR⁴⁸), amide (—CONHR⁴⁸), urethane            (—OCONHR⁴⁸) and urea (—NHCONHR⁴⁸) groups; and/or optionally            containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N;            and/or optionally substituted with 1 to 4 halogen atoms such            as fluorine atoms, and/or 1 to 3 hydroxyl radicals.

According to the invention, among the organogelling agents describedabove, those which can be carried in silicone oils and considered asgelling agents for these media when they are used alone, without thepolymer of the invention, are preferred. They are the followingcompounds:

-   -   a) 12-hydroxystearic acid, its salts and its ester or amide        derivatives which are described in the documents U.S. Pat. No.        5,480,637 [30], EP-A-616 842 [31] and EP-A-665 007 [32] as        gelling agents for silicone oils.    -   b) amides of tricarboxylic acids, for example their diamides as        described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,776,494 [33].    -   c) esters and amides of N-acylamino acids described in        WO-A-93/23008 [15] and U.S. Pat. No. 5,429,816 [34], for example        N-acylglutamides where the acyl group is a C₈ to C₂₂, and the        dibutylamide of N-laurylglutamic acid from Ajinomoto.    -   d) diureas of N-acylamino acids such as the methyl or ethyl        esters of N^(ε)-lauroyl-N^(α)stearylaminocarbonyl-L-lysine and        of N^(ε)-lauroyl-N^(α)-n-butylamino-L-lysine of formulae:

These derivatives are described by K. Hanabusa, Chemistry Letters, 2000,pp. 1070-1071 [20].

-   -   e) Urethane amides of certain dipeptides such as        N-benzyloxycarbonyl-L-valyl-L-valine n-octadecylamide of        formula:    -   described by K. Hanabusa, J. Chem. Soc., Chem. Commun., 1993,        pages 390-92 [35].    -   f) Dibenzylidenesorbitol and its derivatives.    -   g) Sterol derivatives such as:        -   the lanosterol described in EP-A-1 064 925 [36],        -   dihydrolanosterol,        -   cholesterol esters such as cholesterylphenyl acetate,            cholesteryl laureate, cholesteryl cinnamate and cholesteryl            4-(2-anthryloxy)butanoate, and cholesterol esters with            azobenzene groups such as:    -   described by P. Terech, Chem. Rev., 97, 3133-59, 1997 [37].    -   h) Certains cyclodipeptides cited in the article by K.        Hanabusa, J. Colloïd and Int. Sci., 224, pp. 231-44, 2000 [38],        in particular: cyclo(glycyl-L-alanyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-valyl),        cyclo(glycyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-phenylalanyl),        cyclo(L-valyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-leucyl),        cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-leucyl),        cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-phenylalanyl),        cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl),        cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-2-ethylhexylglutamyl),        cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-ethylglutamyl),        cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-dodecylglutamyl),        cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl),        cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-benzylglutamyl),        cyclo(L-β-butylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),        cyclo(L-γ-dodecylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),        cyclo(L-β-3,7-dimethyloctylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),        cyclo(L-O-2-ethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),        cyclo(L-O-3,5,5-trimethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl) and        cyclo(L-β-2-ethylbutylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl).    -   i) the trans-(1R,2R)-bis(undecylcarbonylamino)-cyclohexane        derivative of formula:    -   j) Fluorinated ethers such as those defined in U.S. Pat. No.        6,002,048 [39].    -   k) The organogelling agents defined in WO 01/07007 [16], of        general formula (XVII) described above.    -   l) The bolaamphiphilic amide organogelling agents derived from        amino acids mentioned above.    -   m) The 2-alkyl-2-ammoniumisobutyl acetate p-toluenesulfonate        salts of formula (XXII) cited above, in particular that for        which R³⁷ is derived from L-leucine and R³⁸ represents        —(CH₂)₁₁CH₃.    -   n) The diamide derivatives of benzenedicarboxylic acid and of        valine cited above.    -   o) The non-polymeric organogelling agents of formula (XXV)        or (XXVI) described above.

Among the preferred organogelling agents, the ones which will be evenmore preferred are those which are compatible with silicone oils andwhich in addition possess groups which can give hydrogen interactionswith the polyorganosiloxane polymers used in the invention, that isamide, urea, urethane, ester, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate,thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinationsthereof.

In a particularly preferred manner, there will be used in accordancewith the invention:

-   -   12-hydroxystearic acid amide derivatives,    -   amides of tricarboxylic acids,    -   esters or amides of N-acylamino acids,    -   the diureas cited above,    -   urethane amides of certain dipeptides,    -   the cyclodipeptides cited above,    -   the derivatives of formula (XIV) and more particularly        trans-(1R,2R)-bis(undecylcarbonylamino)cyclohexane,    -   bolaamphipilic amide organogelling agents derived from amino        acids,    -   diamide derivatives of benzenedicarboxylic acid and of valine,        and    -   organogelling agents which are soluble in silicone oils and        which have a non-polymeric structure, defined by the formulae        XXV and XXVI given above.

According to the invention, the polymer may be combined with at leastone amphiphilic compound which is liquid at room temperature, having ahydrophilic/lipophilic balance (HLB) value of less than 12, inparticular ranging from 1 to 7, preferably from 1 to 5, and even betterfrom 3 to 5. According to the invention, it is possible to use one ormore amphiphilic compounds. The aim of these amphiphilic compounds is toreinforce the structuring properties of the polymer, to facilitate theuse of the polymer and to enhance the capacity of the stick to form adeposit.

According to the invention, the composition preferably has a hardnessranging from 20 to 2 000 gf and better still from 20 to 900 gf,particularly from 20 to 600 gf, and for example from 150 to 450 gf. Thishardness may be measured according to a method of penetration of a probeinto the said composition and in particular with the aid of a textureanalyser (for example TA-TXT2i from Rheo) equipped with an ebonitecylinder 25 mm in height and 8 mm in diameter. The hardness measurementis carried out at 20° C. at the centre of five samples of the saidcomposition. The cylinder is introduced into each sample of compositionat a pre-speed of 2 mm/s, then at a speed of 0.5 mm/s and finally at apost-speed of 2 mm/s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The recordedhardness value is that of the maximum peak. The measurement error is ±50gf.

The hardness may also be measured by the “cheese wire” method, whichconsists in cutting a tube of lipstick 12.7 mm or 8.1 mm in diameter andin measuring the hardness at 20° C., using a DFGHS 2 tensile testingmachine from the company Indelco-Chatillon, travelling at a speed of 100mm/minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in gram-force)required to cut a stick under these conditions. According to thismethod, the hardness of a composition in stick form according to theinvention ranges from 30 to 300 gf, preferably from 30 to 250 gf, for astick 12.7 mm in diameter and for example from 30 to 120 gf for a stick8.1 mm in diameter.

The hardness of the composition according to the invention is such thatthe composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form asatisfactory deposit on the skin and the lips. In addition, with thishardness, the composition of the invention shows good impact strength.

According to the invention, the composition in stick form has thebehaviour of a deformable and supple elastic solid, giving noteworthyelastic softness on application. The stick compositions of the prior artdo not have this property of elasticity and suppleness.

The amphiphilic, silicone and non-silicone compound(s) which can be usedin the composition of the invention comprise a lipophilic part linked toa polar part, the lipophilic part containing a carbon chain having atleast 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 18 to 32 carbon atoms and evenbetter from 18 to 28 carbon atoms. Preferably, the polar part of this orthese amphiphilic compound(s) is the residue of a compound chosen fromalcohols and polyols having from 1 to 12 hydroxyl groups,polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two oxyalkylenated moieties andhaving from 0 to 20 oxypropylenated moieties and/or from 0 to 20oxyethylenated moieties. In particular, the amphiphilic compound is anester chosen from hydroxystearates, oleates and isostearates ofglycerol, sorbitan or methylglucose, or branched C₁₂ to C₂₆ fattyalcohols such as octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. Among theseesters, monoesters and mixtures of mono- and diesters are preferred.

The respective amounts of lipophilic non-polymeric organogelling agentand of structuring silicone polymer and optionally of amphiphiliccompound are chosen according to the desired gel hardness and dependingon the particular application envisaged. The respective quantities ofpolymer, organogelling agent and optionally of amphiphilic compoundshould be such that they allow the production of a self-supportedcomposition, for example in the form of a disintegrable stick. Inpractice, the quantity of polymer (as active material) represents from0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition, and even better from5 to 40%. The quantity of amphiphilic compound represents in practicefrom 0.1% to 35% of the total weight of the composition, for examplefrom 1% to 20% and even better from 2% to 15%. The quantity oforganogelling agent represents in practice from 0.1 to 80%, preferablyfrom 0.5 to 60%, and even better from 1 to 40% and better still from 1to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, it is in fact preferable for the quantity oforganogelling agent to be smaller than the quantity of structuringsilicone polymer.

Generally, the silicone polymer/non-polymeric organogelling agent massratio is in the range from 20 to 0.15, preferably from 15 to 1.5.

Other Additives

The composition of the invention may also comprise any ingredientusually used in the field under consideration, and especially thosechosen from dyes that are soluble in polyols or in the fatty phase,antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, perfumes, liposolublepolymers, especially hydrocarbon-based liposoluble polymers such aspolyalkylenes or polyvinyl laurate, liquid-fatty-phase gelling agents,waxes, gums, resins, surfactants, for instance trioleyl phosphate,additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as, forexample, water, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, liquid lanolin,essential fatty acids, lipophilic sunscreens or sunscreens that aresoluble in polyols, and mixtures thereof. The composition according tothe invention may also contain lipid vesicles of ionic and/or non-ionictype. These ingredients, besides the water, may be present in thecomposition in the usual manner in a proportion of from 0% to 20% of thetotal weight of the composition and better still from 0.1% to 10%.

In the case where the composition contains an aqueous phase, which isthe case for a simple or multiple emulsion, this aqueous phase canrepresent 0.1% to 70% of the total weight of the composition, especiallyfrom 0.5% to 40% and better still from 1% to 20%. This aqueous phase cancontain any water-miscible compound such as polyols and may beoptionally gelled with a suitable gelling agent.

Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such thatthe advantageous properties of the composition according to theinvention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by theenvisaged addition.

The compositions of the invention may in particular contain one or morewaxes, for example polyethylene wax, but the use of wax is avoided if itis desired to obtain glossy, or even transparent products. Generally,the amount of wax does not exceed 20% and preferably 10%; it represents,for example, from 3% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of anoptionally tinted dermatological or care composition for keratinousmaterials such as the skin, the lips and/or the superficial bodygrowths, in the form of a sun protection or care composition, especiallyin the form of a make-up-removing product in stick form. It canespecially be used as a care base for the skin, the superficial bodygrowths or the lips (lip balms, for protecting the lips against the coldand/or sunlight and/or the wind, or a care cream for the skin, the nailsor the hair).

The composition of the invention may be provided in particular in theform of a rigid gel, in particular in the form of a transparentanhydrous stick.

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colouredmake-up product for the skin, in particular a foundation, optionallyhaving care or treatment properties, a blusher, a face powder, aneyeshadow, a concealer product, an eyeliner or a make-up product for thebody; a lip make-up, for instance a lipstick, optionally having care ortreatment properties; a make-up for the superficial body growths, forinstance the nails or the eyelashes, in particular in the form of amascara cake, or for the eyebrows and the hair, especially in the formof a pencil. In particular, the composition of the invention may be acosmetic product containing cosmetic and/or dermatological activeagents, for instance essential oils, vitamins, moisturizers, sunscreens,cicatrizing agents and ceramides.

In the case of make-up compositions, hydrophobic or hydrophilic solidparticles may constitute the pigment(s) for making up the skin, the lipsand/or the superficial body growths.

Needless to say, the composition of the invention must be cosmeticallyor dermatologically acceptable, that is to say that it must contain anon-toxic physiologically acceptable medium that can be applied to theskin, the superficial body growths or the lips of human beings. For thepurposes of the invention, the expression “cosmetically acceptable”means a composition of pleasant appearance, odour and feel.

Moreover, the make-up or care compositions in accordance with theinvention must comprise at least 10% by mass of a non-volatile oil(silicone oil or non-silicone oil) and/or of a pasty or viscous productin order to obtain a product which is comfortable and which does notcause tightness.

The expression pasty product is understood to mean a viscous fattysubstance containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. For thepurposes of the invention, the expression “pasty fatty substances” meansfatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to 55° C. andpreferably 25 to 45° C., and/or a viscosity at 40° C. ranging from 0.1to 40 Pa·s (1 to 400 poises) and preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa·s measuredusing a Contraves TV or Rheomat 180 viscometer, equipped with a spindlerotating at 240 min⁻¹ for a power supply at 60 Hz or at 200 min⁻¹ for apower supply at 50 Hz.

A person skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring theviscosity, from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of hisgeneral knowledge, so as to be able to measure the viscosity of thetested pasty compound.

The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to themelting peak measured by the “Differential Scanning Calorimetry” methodwith a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C./min.

By way of example of pasty products that may be used in the invention,mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives, for instanceacetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate,with a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa·s and preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa·s, and/ora melting point of 30 to 55° C., preferably 30 to 40° C., and mixturesthereof. Esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols may also be used,especially those containing 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point ofabout 20 to 35° C. and/or viscosity at 40° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40Pa·s), for instance triisostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidylpropionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters, for instancetriglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated plant oils, viscouspolyesters, for instance poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixturesthereof. Triglycerides of plant origin that may be used includehydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as “THIXINR” from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone-based pasty fatty substances suchas polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing pendent chains of the alkylor alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and having amelting point of 20-55° C., for example 20 to 40° C., for instancestearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Corningunder the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance(s) may be present in a proportion of from 0 to60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,preferably in a proportion of 0.1-45% by weight and even more preferablyin a proportion of 2-30% by weight.

According to the invention, the composition may furthermore containcolouring matter which may be a pigment or a pearlescent agent asdefined above, or a soluble compound chosen from lipophilic dyes,hydrophilic dyes, and mixtures thereof.

The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6,β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DCOrange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto. The hydrophilic dyes are forexample beet juice and methylene blue. Each type of dye can representfrom 0% to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from0.1% to 6% (if present).

The composition according to the invention may be manufactured by knownmethods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. It maybe manufactured by the method which consists in heating the polymer atleast to its softening point, adding thereto the pasty compounds and/orthe optional waxes, the oil(s), the organogelling agent, if necessarythe amphiphilic compound(s), the colouring matter and/or the solidparticles, and the additives, and then in mixing the whole until atransparent, clear solution is obtained. The homogeneous mixtureobtained can then be cast in a suitable mould such as a lipstick mould,or directly into the packaging articles (especially a case or dish).

The subject of the invention is also a make-up structured solidcomposition for the skin, the lips and/or the superficial body growths,containing at least one pigment in a sufficient quantity for applyingmake-up to the skin, the lips and/or the superficial body growths and aliquid continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oilstructured with at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having aweight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing atleast one moiety comprising:

-   -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form        of a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one group is different from an ester group,        the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the        liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.,        the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of        silicone oil(s) and containing a non-polymeric organogelling        agent,    -   the said composition being provided in the form of a solid, and        the pigment, the liquid fatty phase, the organogelling agent and        the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

This make-up composition is preferably self-supporting.

The subject of the invention is also a lipstick structured composition,containing at least one pigment in a sufficient quantity for applyingmake-up to the lips and a liquid continuous fatty phase comprising atleast one silicone oil structured with at least one polymer (homopolymeror copolymer) having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to500 000, containing at least one moiety comprising:

-   -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form        of a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one group is different from an ester group,        the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the        liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.,        the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of        silicone oil(s) and of an organogelling agent,    -   the said composition being provided in the form of a solid, and        the pigment, the liquid fatty phase and the polymer forming a        physiologically acceptable medium.

The composition of the invention may be provided in the form of a cakemascara, an eyeliner, a foundation, a lipstick, a blusher, amake-up-removing product, a make-up product for the body, an eyeliner ora face powder, or a concealer product.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up stick for the skin, thelips and/or the superficial body growths, and in particular for thelips, containing at least one pigment in a sufficient quantity forapplying make-up to the skin, the lips and/or the superficial bodygrowths and a liquid continuous fatty phase comprising at least onesilicone oil structured with at least one polymer (homopolymer orcopolymer) having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to500 000, containing at least one moiety comprising:

-   -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form        of a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one group is different from an ester group,        the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the        liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.,    -   the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of        silicone oil(s) and of organogelling agent, the pigment, the        fatty phase and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable        medium.

The invention relates to a cosmetic care, make-up or treatment methodfor the keratinous materials of human beings, comprising the applicationto the keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition in accordance withthe invention.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a sufficient quantity ofat least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight-averagemolecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least onemoiety comprising:

-   -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form        of a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one group is different from an ester group,        the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the        liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.,        in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a        physiologically acceptable composition, containing a liquid        continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil, the        liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of silicone        oil(s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40° C. and        greater than the softening point of the polymer and containing        an organogelling agent, to structure the said composition in the        form of a self-supporting solid with a hardness ranging from 20        to 2 000 gf and preferably from 20 to 900 gf and even better        from 20 to 600 gf.

The subject of invention is also the use of a continuous liquid fattyphase comprising at least one silicone oil, essentially structured witha sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer)having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000,containing at least one moiety comprising:

-   -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form        of a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one group is different from an ester group,        the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the        liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.,    -   the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of        volatile oil(s) having a flash point equal to or greater than        40° C. and greater than the softening point of the polymer and        containing an organogelling agent, in a cosmetic composition or        for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable, rigid,        self-supporting, glossy and/or non-migrating composition, on the        condition that the composition comprises at least 10% by mass of        a non-volatile oil and/or of a pasty or viscous product.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a sufficient quantity ofat least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight-averagemolecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least onemoiety comprising:

-   -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form        of a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one group is different from an ester group,        the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the        liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.,    -   in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a        physiologically acceptable composition, containing a liquid        continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil and        at least one organogelling agent, to structure the said        composition in the form of a self-supporting solid.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a continuous liquidfatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil, essentially structuredwith a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer orcopolymer) having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to500 000, containing at least one moiety comprising:

-   -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in a chain of the moiety or in the form of        a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one group is different from an ester group,        the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the        liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.,    -   the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of        volatile oil(s) having a flash point equal to or greater than        40° C. and greater than the softening point of the gelling        polymer and containing an organogelling agent, in a cosmetic        composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically        acceptable composition, as agent for limiting the migration of        the said composition, on the condition that the composition        comprises at least 10% by mass of a non-volatile oil and/or of a        pasty or viscous product.

According to an advantageous characteristic of these uses, thecomposition has a hardeness of 20 to 2 000 gf, preferably of 20 to 900gf and even better of 20 to 600 gf.

The invention finally relates to a cosmetic method for limiting themigration of a cosmetic composition containing a liquid fatty phasecomprising at least one silicone oil, consisting in structuring the saidfatty phase with a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer(homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight-average molecular massranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least one moiety comprising:

-   -   at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000        organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form        of a graft, and    -   at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen        interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,        thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and        biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, provided that at        least one group is different from an ester group,        the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the        liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C.,    -   the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of        silicone oil(s) and containing at least one organogelling agent.

DETAILED DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examplesof make-up formulation. The quantities are given as % by mass. Thechemical compounds are given mainly as the CTFA (“International CosmeticIngredient Dictionary”) name. The viscosities are measured at 25° C. andat atmospheric pressure.

EXAMPLE 1 Lipstick

Composition Cyclopentasiloxane D5 qs 100% Phenyltrimethicone (DC 556from Dow Corning, of 20 cSt)  5% Hydrogenated isoparaffin (Parleam ®from Nippon Oil Fats)  5% Hydrophobic treated pigments (red and yellowiron oxides and 10% titanium oxide) Silicone polyamide of Example 1 ofPatent US 5 981 680 15% Preservative qs Organogelling agent(dibutylamide of N-laurylglutamic acid)  5% Perfume qs

The pigments have the following colour indices (Cl):

-   -   red iron oxide Cl: 77491    -   yellow iron oxide Cl: 77492    -   titanium oxide Cl: 77891

This lipstick is obtained by heating the organogelling agent and thepolymer until the whole melts, followed by addition of the Parleam andof a portion of the phenyltrimethicone. In parallel, the pigments andthe other portion of the phenyltrimethicone are mixed at roomtemperature and then they are ground in a three-roll mill. This groundmaterial is added to the molten mixture of wax and of silicone oils, andthen the whole is homogenized. The whole is cooled by at least 20° C.relative to the melting point of the mixture and the cyclopentasiloxaneD5 is then added, followed by the preservative and the perfume, stillwith stirring. The mixture is then cast in a suitable mould.

The product thus obtained has properties of staying power, in particularof the colour, of slipperiness and of non-greasiness.

EXAMPLE 2 Foundation

Composition Cyclopentasiloxane D5 qs 100% PDMS α-ωoxyethylenated/oxypropylenated in  3% cyclopentasiloxane D5 (Abil EM 90from Goldschmmitd) Phenyltrimethicone (DC 556 from Dow Corning, of 20cSt)  5% Hydrogenated isoparaffin (Parleam ® from Nippon Oil Fats)  5%Hydrophobic treated pigments (red and yellow iron oxides and 10%titanium oxide) Silicone polyamide of Example 2 of Patent US 5 981 68015% Preservative qs Organogelling agent¹  2% Perfume qs1) The organogelling agent is a cis-trans mixture of the compound offormula:

The pigments have the following colour indices (Cl):

-   -   red iron oxide Cl: 77491    -   yellow iron oxide Cl: 77492    -   brown iron oxide Cl: 77491    -   titanium oxide Cl: 77891

This foundation is obtained by heating the organogelling agent and thepolymer in the mixture of oils until the whole melts, followed byaddition of the Parleam and of a portion of the phenyltrimethicone. Inparallel, the pigments, Abil EM 90 and the other portion of thephenyltrimethicone are mixed at room temperature and then they areground in a three-roll mill. This ground material is added to the moltenmixture of wax and of silicone oils, and then the whole is homogenizedby means of magnetic stirring. The whole is cooled by at least 20° C.relative to the melting point of the mixture and the cyclopentasiloxaneD5 is then added, followed by the preservative and the perfume, stillwith stirring. The mixture is then cast in a suitable mould.

The product thus obtained has properties of staying power, in particularof the colour, of slipperiness and of non-greasiness.

EXAMPLE 3 Anhydrous Foundation

Composition PDMS (5 cSt) qs 100% Phenyltrimethicone (DC 556)  5% PDMS(300 cSt)  5% Hydrophobic treated pigments (red and yellow iron oxidesand 10% titanium oxide, treated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate) Siliconepolyamide of Example 2 of Pat. U.S. 5 981 680 12% Hydrophobic treatedsilica (trimethylsiloxyl treatment)  3% Preservative qs Organogellingagent¹  4% Perfume qs¹The organogelling agent is a cis-trans mixture of the compound offormula:

This foundation is prepared like the lipstick of Example 1, the silicabeing introduced at the same time as the phenyltrimethicone into thepigmented ground material and the isononyl isononanoate being introducedinto the mixture of wax and of silicone oils.

It has properties of non-greasiness, slipperiness, mattness and goodstaying power over time, in particular of the colour.

The particles used are hydrophobic (or even better lipophilic)particles.

REFERENCES

-   [1] EP-A-1 068 856-   [2] WO-A-01/97758-   [3] U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069-   [4] U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441-   [5] U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216-   [6] WO-A-02/17870-   [7] WO-A-02/17871-   [8] EP-A-1 177 784-   [9] U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004-   [10] EP-A-1 048 686-   [11] U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680-   [12] Article by D. Robb, 1997, pp. 209-263, chapter 8 and by P.    Terech “Specialist Surfactants”-   [13] FR-A-2 796 276-   [14] FR-A-2 811 552-   [15] WO-93/23008-   [16] WO-A-01/07007-   [17] Article by R. J. H. Hafkamp, Chem. Commun., 1997, pages 545-546-   [18] Article J. Org. Chem., vol. 64, No. 2, 412-26 (1999)-   [19] Article by M. Jokic, J. Chem. Soc., Chem. Commun., pages    1723-24 (1995)-   [20] Article by K. Hanabusa, Chemistry Letters, pp. 1070-71, 2000-   [21] Article by K. Hanabusa, Chemistry Letters, pp. 767-8, 1999-   [22] Article by X. Luo, Chem. Commun., pp. 2091-92, 2000-   [23] Article by T. Shimizu, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 119, pp. 2812-18,    1997-   [24] Article by K. Hanabusa, Adv. Mater., 9, No. 14, 1997, pp.    1095-1097-   [25] Article by K. Hanabusa, Colloïd Polym. Sci., 276, pp. 252-59,    1998-   [26] WO-A-00/61080-   [27] WO-A-00/61081-   [28] U.S. Pat. No. 6,156,325-   [29] Article by K. Hanabusa, Agnew. Chem., 108, 1997, 17, pp.    2086-2088-   [30] U.S. Pat. No. 5,480,637-   [31] EP-A-616 842-   [32] EP-A-665 007-   [33] U.S. Pat. No. 5,776,494-   [34] U.S. Pat. No. 5,429,816-   [35] Article by K. Hanabusa, J. Chem. Soc., Chem. Commun., 1993, pp.    390-92-   [36] EP-A-1 064 925-   [37] Article by P. Terech, Chem. Rev., 97, 3133-59, 1997-   [38] Article by K. Hanabusa, J. Colloïd and Int. Sci., 224, pp.    231-44, 2000-   [39] U.S. Pat. No. 6,002,048-   [40] WO-A-99/06473-   [41] U.S. Pat. No. 6,353,076

1. Care and/or make-up cosmetic composition comprising a liquid fattyphase comprising at least one silicone oil, structured with a gellingsystem comprising: 1) at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer)having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000,containing at least one moiety comprising: at least onepolyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1 000 organosiloxane unitsin the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least twogroups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester,amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido,guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, providedthat at least one of the groups is different from an ester group, thepolymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fattyphase at a temperature of 25 to 250° C., and 2) at least onenon-polymeric organogelling agent, the liquid fatty phase and thegelling system forming a physiologically acceptable medium. 2.Composition according to claim 1, in which the liquid fatty phasecomprises at least one volatile silicone oil.
 3. Composition accordingto claim 1, in which the liquid fatty phase comprises at least onevolatile silicone oil and at least one volatile non-silicone oil. 4.Composition according to claim 2 or 3, in which the volatile siliconeoil has a flash point equal to or greater than 40° C. and advantageouslygreater than the softening point of the gelling system.
 5. Compositionaccording to any one of claims 2 to 4, in which the volatile siliconeoil is chosen from the group consisting of the following compounds:octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane D4,dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane D6, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane,decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxaneof 1.5 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 2 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 3cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 5 cSt, and mixtures thereof.
 6. Compositionaccording to any one of claims 2 to 5, in which the volatile oil has aflash point of 40 to 135° C.
 7. Composition according to any one ofclaims 2 to 6, in which the liquid fatty phase contains at least 30%,and even better at least 40% by weight of silicone oil.
 8. Compositionaccording to any one of claims 2 to 7, in which the volatile oilrepresents from 3 to 89.4% of the total weight of the composition. 9.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising, inaddition, solid particles chosen from fillers, pigments and mixturesthereof.
 10. Composition according to claim 9, in which the solidparticles are hydrophobic particles.
 11. Composition according to claim10, in which the solid particles are hydrophilic particles, coated witha film of hydrophobic compound.
 12. Composition according to claim 9, inwhich the solid particles are hydrophilic particles and the compositionfurther comprises an amphiphilic silicone.
 13. Composition according toone of claims 9 to 12, in which the particles are pigments chosen fromzinc oxides, iron oxides, titanium oxides and mixtures thereof. 14.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which the polymerused in the gelling system comprises at least one moiety correspondingto the formula:

in which: 1) R¹, R R³ and R⁴, which may be identical or different,represent a group chosen from: linear, branched or cyclic, saturated orunsaturated, C₁ to C₄₀ hydrocarbon-based groups, possibly containing intheir chain one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, andpossibly being partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms, C₆to C₁₀ aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C₁ to C₄alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or moreoxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms; 2) the groups X, which may beidentical or different, represent a linear or branched C₁ to C₃₀alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygenand/or nitrogen atoms; 3) Y is a saturated or unsaturated, C₁ to C₅₀linear or branched divalent alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene,alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, possibly comprising one or moreoxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or bearing as substituent oneof the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C₃ to C₈cycloalkyl, C₁ to C₄₀ alkyl, C₅ to C₁₀ aryl, phenyl optionallysubstituted with 1 to 3 C₁ to C₃ alkyl groups, C₁ to C₃ hydroxyalkyl andC₁ to C₆ aminoalkyl, or 4) Y represents a group corresponding to theformula:

in which T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C₃to C₂₄ trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionallysubstituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing oneor more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atomchosen from N, P and Al, and R⁵ represents a linear or branched C₁ toC₅₀ alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising oneor more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/orsulphonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain ofthe polymer; 5) the groups G, which may be identical or different,represent divalent groups chosen from:

in which R⁶ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁ to C₂₀alkyl group, on condition that at least 50% of the groups R⁶ of thepolymer represent a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the groups Gof the polymer are a group other than:

6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200,and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 000, preferably from 1 to 700and better still from 6 to
 200. 15. Composition according to claim 14,in which Y represents a group chosen from: a) linear C₁ to C₂₀ andpreferably C₁ to C₁₀ alkylene groups, b) C₃₀ to C₅₆ branched alkylenegroups possibly comprising rings and unconjugated unsaturations, c)C₅-C₆ cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substitutedwith one or more C₁ to C₄₀ alkyl groups, e) C₁ to C₂₀ alkylene groupscomprising from 1 to 5 amide groups, f) C₁ to C₂₀ alkylene groupscomprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C₃ to C₈cycloalkane, C₁ to C₃ hydroxyalkyl and C₁ to C₆ alkylamine groups, g)polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:

in which R¹, R², R³, R⁴, T and m are as defined above.
 16. Compositionaccording to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which the polymer used in thegelling system comprises at least one moiety corresponding to formula(II):

in which R¹ and R³, which may be identical or different, are as definedabove for formula (I) in claim 14, R⁷ represents a group as definedabove for R¹ and R³, or represents the group of formula —X-G-R⁹ in whichX and G are as defined above for formula (I) in claim 14, and R⁹represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated orunsaturated, C₁ to C₅₀ hydrocarbon-based group optionally comprising inits chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionallysubstituted with one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxylgroups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more C₁ toC₄ alkyl groups, R⁸ represents the group of formula —X-G-R⁹ in which X,G and R⁹ are as defined above, m₁ is an integer ranging from 1 to 998,and m₂ is an integer ranging from 2 to
 500. 17. Composition according toclaim 14, in which the polymer comprises at least one moiety of formula(III) or (IV):

in which R¹, R², R³, R⁴, X, Y, m and n are as defined in claim
 14. 18.Composition according to either of claims 14 and 17, in which X and/or Yrepresent an alkylene group containing in its alkylene portion at leastone of the following elements: 1) 1 to 5 amide, urea or carbamategroups, 2) a C₅ or C₆ cycloalkyl group, and 3) a phenylene groupoptionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C₁ to C₃ alkylgroups, it being possible for the alkyl groups X or Y to also besubstituted with at least one element chosen from the group consistingof: a hydroxyl group, a C₃ to C₈ cycloalkyl group, one to three C₁ toC₄₀ alkyl groups, a phenyl group optionally substituted with one tothree C₁ to C₃ alkyl groups, a C₁ to C₃ hydroxyalkyl group, and a C₁ toC₆ aminoalkyl group.
 19. Composition according to any one of claims 14to 17, in which Y represents:

in which R⁵ represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents agroup of formula:

in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10,and R¹⁰ is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R¹, R²,R³ and R⁴, in claim
 14. 20. Composition according to any one of claims14 to 17, in which R¹, R R³ and R⁴ represent, independently, a linear orbranched C₁ to C₄₀ alkyl group, preferably a CH₃, C₂H₅, n-C₃H₇ orisopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionallysubstituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
 21. Compositionaccording to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which the polymer used in thegelling system comprises at least one moiety of formula:

in which X¹ and X², which are identical or different, have the meaninggiven for X in claim 14, n, Y and T are as defined in claim 14, R¹¹ toR¹⁸ are groups chosen from the same group as R¹ to R⁴ in claim 14, m₁and m₂ are numbers in the range from 1 to 1 000, and p is an integerranging from 2 to
 500. 22. Composition according to claim 21, in which:p is in the range from 1 to 25 and better still from 1 to 7, R¹¹ to R¹⁸are methyl groups, T corresponds to one of the following formulae:

in which R¹⁹ is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the groupsdefined for R¹ to R⁴, and R²⁰, R²¹ and R²² are, independently, linear orbranched alkylene groups, and more preferably corresponds to theformula:

in particular with R²⁰, R²¹ and R²² representing —CH₂—CH₂—, m₁ and m₂are in the range from 15 to 500 and better still from 15 to 45, X¹ andX² represent —(CH₂)₁₀—, and Y represents —CH₂—.
 23. Compositionaccording to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which the polymer used in thegelling system comprises at least one moiety corresponding to thefollowing formula:

in which R¹, R², R³, R⁴, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above forformula (I) in claim 14, and U represents —O— or —NH—, or Y represents aC₅ to C₁₂ cycloaliphatic or aromatic group that may be substituted witha C₁ to C₁₅ alkyl group or a C₅ to C₁₀ aryl group, for example a radicalchosen from the methylene-4,4-biscyclohexyl radical, the radical derivedfrom isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-tolylenes, 1,5-naphthylene,p-phenylene and 4,4′-biphenylenemethane, or Y represents a linear orbranched C₁ to C₄₀ alkylene radical or a C₄ to C₁₂ cycloalkyleneradical, or Y represents a polyurethane or polyurea block correspondingto the condensation of several diisocyanate molecules with one or moremolecules of coupling agents of the diol or diamine type, correspondingto the formula:

in which B¹ is a group chosen from the groups given above for Y, U is—O— or —NH— and B² is chosen from: linear or branched C₁ to C₄₀ alkylenegroups, which can optionally bear an ionizable group such as acarboxylic acid or sulphonic acid group, or a neutralizable orquaternizable tertiary amine group, C₅ to C₁₂ cycloalkylene groups,optionally bearing alkyl substituents, for example one to three methylor ethyl groups, or alkylene substituents, for example the diol radical:cyclohexanedimethanol, phenylene groups that may optionally bear C₁ toC₃ alkyl substituents, and groups of formula:

in which T is a hydrocarbon-based trivalent radical possibly containingone or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulphur and nitrogen and R⁵ is apolyorganosiloxane chain or a linear or branched C₁ to C₅₀ alkyl chain.24. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which thepolymer used in the gelling system comprises at least one moiety offormula:

in which R¹, R², R³, m₁ and m₂ have the meanings given for formula (I)in claim 14, U represents O or NH, R²³ represents a C₁ to C₄₀ alkylenegroup, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from O andN, or a phenylene group, and R²⁴ is chosen from linear, branched orcyclic, saturated or unsaturated C₁ to C₅₀ alkyl groups, and phenylgroups optionally substituted with one to three C₁ to C₃ alkyl groups.25. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which thepolymer used in the gelling system comprises at least one moiety offormula:

in which X¹ and X², which are identical or different, have the meaninggiven for X in claim 14, n, Y and T are as defined in claim 14, R¹¹ toR¹⁸ are groups chosen from the same group as R¹ to R⁴ in claim 14, m₁and m₂ are numbers in the range from 1 to 1 000, and p is an integerranging from 2 to
 500. 26. Composition according to any one of claims 14to 25, in which the polymer used in the gelling system further comprisesa hydrocarbon-based moiety comprising two groups capable of establishinghydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide,carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino andbiguanidino groups, and combinations thereof.
 27. Composition accordingto claim 26, in which the copolymer is a block copolymer or a graftcopolymer.
 28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,in which the polymer represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight ofthe composition, preferably from 2 to 60% and even better from 5 to 40%of the total weight of the composition.
 29. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty phase furthercontains a non-silicone oil.
 30. Composition according to any one of thepreceding claims, in which the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to99% of the total weight of the composition and even better from 20 to75% of the total weight of the composition.
 31. Composition according toany one of claims 1 to 30, in which the said organogelling agent ischosen from non-polymeric organic compounds whose molecules are capableof establishing, with each other, at least one physical interactionleading to self-aggregation of the said molecules with formation of athree-dimensional macromolecular network.
 32. Composition according toclaim 31, in which the physical interaction(s) are chosen fromself-complementary hydrogen interactions, interactions betweenunsaturated nuclei, dipolar interactions and coordination bonds withorganometallic derivatives.
 33. Composition according to any one ofclaims 1 to 32, in which the organogelling agent is chosen fromcompounds whose molecules comprise at least one entity chosen from atleast one group capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, at least onearomatic nucleus, at least one bond comprising an ethylenic unsaturationand at least one asymmetric carbon.
 34. Composition according to any oneof claims 1 to 33, in which the organogelling agent is a compound whosemolecules comprise at least two groups capable of establishing ahydrogen bond.
 35. Composition according to claim 34, in which the groupcapable of establishing a hydrogen bond is chosen from the hydroxyl,carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, benzyl, sulphonamide,carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino andbiguanidino groups.
 36. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to35, in which the organogelling agent comprises at least one compoundchosen from: hydroxylated fatty carboxylic acids comprising a chainchosen from linear and branched, aliphatic carbon chains, and the saltsthereof chosen from alkali metal salts and alkaline-earth metal salts,and esters thereof; amides of carboxylic acids; amides and esters ofamino acids; amides of N-acylamino acids; diamides having hydrocarbonchains each containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substitutedwith at least one substituent chosen from ester, urea and fluoro groups;amines and amides of steroids and their salts; compounds containingseveral aromatic nuclei, chosen from the anthrylic derivativescomprising at least two alkyl chains containing from 8 to 30 carbonatoms, for example 2,3-bis(n-decyloxy)anthracene or2,3-bis(n-decyloxy)anthraquinone, or comprising a steroid group, forexample cholesteryl 4-(2-anthryloxy)butanoate or cholesterylanthraquinone-2-carboxylate and derivatives thereof; azobenzenesteroids; organometallic compounds, chosen from mononuclear copperβ-diketonate (the octasubstituted copper complex ofbis(3,4-nonyloxybenzoyl)methane), binuclear copper tetracarboxylates orZn (II) complexes of trisubstituted (para-carboxyphenyl)porphyrine;surfactants in salt form comprising at least two chains chosen fromlinear or branched alkyl chains; benzylidene sorbitols and alditols andderivatives thereof; cyclodipeptides which are cyclic condensates of twoamino acids; cyclic compounds and alkylene compounds comprising two ureaor urethane groups; alkylaryl derivatives of cyclohexanol; calixarenes;combinations of 2,4,6-triaminopyrimidines which are substituted with analkyl chain and of dialkylbarbituric acid; gluconamide derivatives;bisoxalylamides of amino acids; amide and urea derivatives of a lysineester; diamide derivatives of benzenedicarboxylic acids;monoalkyloxamides; bolaamphiphiles with a 1-glucosamide head; amidederivatives of bolaamphiphiles; 2-alkyl-2-ammoniumisobutyl acetatep-toluenesulphonates; fatty esters of cellobiose; and derivatives havingtwo urea groups and two carbamate groups of formula (XXIV):

in which R⁴¹ is an alkyl group of 4 to 42 carbon atoms optionallycontaining oxygen atoms, and R⁴² and R⁴³, which may be identical ordifferent, represent C₂ to C₂₀ alkylene, C₅ to C₁₀ cycloalkylene or C₅to C₁₀ cycloarylene groups; diamides of formula (XXV) or (XXVI):R⁴⁴—X—CO—NH—R⁴⁵—NH—CO—X—R⁴⁴  (XXV)orR⁴⁴—CO—NH—R⁴⁵—NH—CO—R⁴⁴  (XXVI) in which the groups R⁴⁴, which may beidentical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched C₈-C₆₀ hydrocarbon chain, the group(s) R⁴⁴ optionallycomprising a hydroxyl group or at least one heteroatom such as N, O, Sor Si, R⁴⁵ is a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from linear, branched andcyclic C₁ to C₅₀ groups and C₅ to C₈ arylene groups optionallysubstituted with one or more C₁-C₄ alkyl groups, and X represents —O— or—NH—.
 37. Composition according to claim 36, in which in the saidhydroxylated fatty carboxylic acids, the said chain comprises a carbonchain having at least 8 carbon atoms.
 38. Composition according to claim36, in which the said carboxylic acid amides are chosen fromtricarboxylic acid amides.
 39. Composition according to claim 38, inwhich the said tricarboxylic acid amides are chosen fromcyclohexanetricarboxamides.
 40. Composition according to claim 36, inwhich the said amides of N-acylamino acids are chosen from the diamidesresulting from the action of an N-acylamino acid with an aminecomprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
 41. Composition according to claim36, in which the said hydrocarbon chains of the said diamides havinghydrocarbon chains comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms contain from 6to 18 carbon atoms.
 42. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to36, in which the organogelling agent comprises at least one compoundchosen from amides of N-acylamino acids, cyclohexanetricarboxamides anddiamides having hydrocarbon chains, each containing from 1 to 22 carbonatoms, optionally substituted with at least one substituent chosen fromester, urea and fluoro groups.
 43. Composition according to any one ofclaims 1 to 30, in which the organogelling agent comprises at least onecompound chosen from the compounds of formula (XIV):R⁴⁶—CO—NH-A-NH—CO—R⁴⁷  (XIV) in which R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷, which may beidentical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon chainchosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear, branched and cyclichydrocarbon chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionallysubstituted with at least one group chosen from aryl (—C₆H₅), ester(—COOR⁴⁸), amide (—CONHR⁴⁸ with R⁴⁸), urethane (—OCONHR⁴⁸), and urea(—NHCONHR⁴⁸) with R⁴⁸ being an alkyl group of 2 to 12 carbon atoms)groups; and/or optionally containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen fromO, S and N; and/or optionally substituted with 1 to 4 halogen atomsand/or 1 to 3 hydroxyl radicals, provided that R⁴⁶ and R⁴⁷ are not botha hydrogen atom, and A is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear,cyclic and branched hydrocarbon chains containing from 1 to 18 carbonatoms, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from aryl(—C₆H₅), ester (—COOR⁴⁸), amide (—CONHR⁴⁸), urethane (—OCONHR⁴⁸) andurea (—NHCONHR⁴⁸) groups where R⁴⁸ is as defined above; and/oroptionally containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N;and/or optionally substituted with 1 to 4 halogen atoms and/or 1 to 3hydroxyl radicals.
 44. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to30, in which the said organogelling agent comprises at least onecompound chosen from: N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane,N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,3-diaminocyclohexane,N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,4-diaminocyclohexane,N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,2-ethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1-methyl-1,2-ethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,3-diaminopropane,N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,12-diaminododecane,N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-3,4-diaminotoluene.
 45. Composition according toany one of claims 1 to 30, in which the said organogelling agentcomprises at least one compound chosen from the compounds of formula(XV):

in which the groups R⁴⁸, which are identical or different, are chosenfrom a hydrogen atom and saturated, linear and branched hydrocarbonchains, the said hydrocarbon chains containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;the groups Z, which are identical or different, each represent a groupchosen from the following groups: —CO—S—R⁴⁹; —CO—NHR⁴⁹; —NH—COR⁴⁹ and—S—COR⁴⁹; in which the groups R⁴⁹, which may be identical or different,are chosen from: a hydrogen atom, aryl groups, aralkyl groups, andsaturated hydrocarbon chains chosen from linear, branched and cyclichydrocarbon chains, containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionallysubstituted with at least one group chosen from aryl, ester, amide andurethane groups; and/or optionally comprising at least one heteroatomchosen from O, S and N; and/or optionally substituted with at least onefluorine atom and/or one hydroxyl radical.
 46. Composition according toclaim 45, in which in the said formula (XV), each R⁴⁸ is a hydrogenatom.
 47. Composition according to claim 45 or 46, in which in the saidformula (XV), each Z is chosen from the groups CONHR⁴⁹ and NH—COR⁴⁹. 48.Composition according to any one of claims 45 to 47, in which in thesaid formula (XV), R⁴⁹ is chosen from aryl groups; aralkyl groups inwhich the alkyl portion is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising12 to 16 carbon atoms; and linear and branched C₁₁-C₁₈ alkyl chains. 49.Composition according to any one of claims 45 to 48, in which theorganogelling agent is chosen from:cis-1,3,5-tris(dodecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane,cis-1,3,5-tris(octadecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane,cis-1,3,5-tris[N-(3,7-dimethyloctyl)aminocarbonyl]-cyclohexane,trans-1,3,5-trimethyl-1,3,5-tris(dodecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane, andtrans-1,3,5-trimethyl-1,3,5-tris(octadecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane. 50.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 30, in which theorganogelling agent comprises at least one compound of formula (XVI):R⁴⁶NHCONHANHCONHR⁴⁶  (XVI) in which A and R⁴⁶ are as defined in claim43.
 51. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 36, in which theorganogelling agent comprises at least one compound capable of gelling asilicone oil, chosen from: a) 12-hydroxystearic acid, its salts and itsester or amide derivatives, b) amides of tricarboxylic acids, c) estersand amides of N-acylamino acids, d) diureas of N-acylamino acids, e)urethane amides of dipeptides, f) dibenzylidenesorbitol and itsderivatives, g) sterol derivatives, h) cyclodipeptides chosen fromcyclo(glycyl-L-alanyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-valyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-leucyl),cyclo(glycyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-valyl-L-leucyl),cyclo(L-leucyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-leucyl),cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl),cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-2-ethylhexylglutamyl),cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-ethylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-dodecylglutamyl),cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl),cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-benzylglutamyl),cyclo(L-β-butylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-γ-dodecylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-β-3,7-dimethyloctylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-β-2-ethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-β-3,5,5-trimethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl) andcyclo(L-β-2-ethylbutylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), i)trans-(1R,2R)-bis(undecylcarbonylamino)cyclohexane of formula:

j) fluorinated ethers, k) organogelling agents of formula (XVII):Q-O—W—(CHOH)_(s)—W¹—O-Q¹  (XVII) in which W and W¹, which may beidentical or different, are chosen from —CH₂— and —CO—, and in which Qand Q¹, which may be identical or different, are a hydrocarbon chainchosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbonchains containing at least 6 carbon atoms, and in which s is an integerfrom 2 to 4; l) bolaamphiphilic amides derived from amino acids offormulae:

m) 2-alkyl-2-ammoniumisobutyl acetate p-toluenesulphonate salts offormula (XXII):p-CH₃—C₆H₄—SO₃ ⁻ ⁺H₃N—CH(R³⁷)—CO—OR³⁸  (XXII) in which R³⁷ represents:

n) diamide derivatives of benzenedicarboxylic acid and of valine offormulae:

in which -L-Val- represents:—NH—CH[CH(CH₃)₂)]—CO—; o) diamides of formula (XXV) or (XXVI):R⁴⁴—X—CO—NH—R⁴⁵—NH—CO—X—R⁴⁴  (XXV)orR⁴⁴—CO—NH—R⁴⁵—NH—CO—R⁴⁴  (XXVI) in which the groups R⁴⁴, which may beidentical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched C₈-C₆₀ hydrocarbon chain, the group(s) R⁴⁴ optionallycomprising a hydroxyl group or at least one heteroatom such as N, O, Sor Si, R⁴⁵ is a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from linear, branched andcyclic C₁ to C₅₀ groups and C₅ to C₈ arylene groups optionallysubstituted with one or more C₁-C₄ alkyl groups, and X represents —O— or—NH—.
 52. Composition according to claim 51, in which the organogellingagent comprises at least one compound capable of gelling a silicone oiland possessing at least one group capable of establishing hydrogeninteractions with the polymer of the gelling system, chosen from: a)12-hydroxystearic acid amide derivatives, b) amides of tricarboxylicacids, c) esters and amides of N-acylamino acids, d) diureas ofN-acylamino acids, e) urethane amides of dipeptides, f) cyclodipeptideschosen from cyclo(glycyl-L-alanyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-valyl),cyclo(glycyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-valyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-leucyl),cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl),cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-2-ethylhexylglutamyl),cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-ethylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-dodecylglutamyl),cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl),cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-benzylglutamyl),cyclo(L-β-butylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-γ-dodecylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-O-3,7-dimethyloctylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-§-2-ethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl),cyclo(L-β-3,5,5-trimethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl) andcyclo(L-α-2-ethylbutylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), g)trans-(1R,2R)-bis(undecylcarbonylamino)cyclohexane of formula:

h) bolaamphiphilic amides derived from amino acids of formulae:

i) diamide derivatives of benzenedicarboxylic acid and of valine offormulae:

in which -L-Val- represents:—NH—CH[CH(CH₃)₂)]—CO—; j) diamides of formula (XXV) or (XXVI):R⁴⁴—X—CO—NH—R⁴⁵—NH—CO—X—R⁴⁴  (XXV)orR⁴⁴—CO—NH—R⁴⁵—NH—CO—R⁴⁴  (XXVI) in which the groups R⁴⁴, which may beidentical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched C₆-C₆₀ hydrocarbon chain, the group(s) R⁴⁴ optionallycomprising a hydroxyl group or at least one heteroatom such as N, O, Sor Si, R⁴⁵ is a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from linear, branched andcyclic C₁ to C₅₀ groups and C₅ to C₈ arylene groups optionallysubstituted with one or more C₁-C₄ alkyl groups, and X represents —O— or—NH—.
 53. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 30, in whichthe organogelling agent comprises at least one compound chosen from: thecis-trans mixture of N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane offormula:

the dibutylamide of N-laurylglutamic acid.
 54. Composition according toany one of claims 1 to 53, in which the said organogelling agent ispresent in a quantity ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.
 55. Composition according to any one ofclaims 1 to 54, in which the said organogelling agent is present in aquantity ranging from 0.5% to 60%, preferably from 1 to 40% and evenbetter from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 56. Composition according to any one of the precedingclaims, in which the silicone polymer/non-polymeric organogelling agentmass ratio is in the range from 20 to 0.15, preferably from 15 to 1.5.57. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,characterized in that it comprises, in addition, at least one cosmeticor dermatological active agent.
 58. Composition according to thepreceding claim, characterized in that the active agent is chosen fromessential oils, vitamins, moisturizers, sunscreens, cicatrizing agentsand ceramides.
 59. Composition according to any one of the precedingclaims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additive chosenfrom dyes that are soluble in polyols or in the fatty phase,antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, perfumes, liposolublepolymers, especially hydrocarbon-based liposoluble polymers such aspolyalkylenes or polyvinyl laurate, liquid-fatty-phase gelling agents,waxes, gums, resins, surfactants, for instance trioleyl phosphate,additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents chosen, for example,from the group consisting of water, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins,liquid lanolin, essential fatty acids, lipophilic sunscreens orsunscreens that are soluble in polyols, lipid vesicles, and mixturesthereof.
 60. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,characterized in that it contains, in addition, an amphiphilic compoundwhich is liquid at room temperature, having a hydrophilic/lipophilicbalance value of less than
 12. 61. Composition according to any one ofthe preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprisescolouring matter.
 62. Composition according to any one of the precedingclaims, characterized in that it is provided in the form of a rigid gel,and in particular of a transparent anhydrous stick.
 63. Make-upstructured solid composition for the skin, the lips and/or thesuperficial body growths, containing at least one pigment in asufficient quantity for applying make-up to the skin, the lips and/orthe superficial body growths and a liquid continuous fatty phasecomprising at least one silicone oil structured with at least onepolymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight-average molecularmass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least one moietycomprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of agraft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogeninteractions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidinogroups, and combinations thereof, provided that at least one group isdifferent from an ester group, the polymer being solid at roomtemperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25to 250° C., the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally ofsilicone oil(s) and containing a non-polymeric organogelling agent, thesaid composition being provided in the form of a solid, and the pigment,the liquid fatty phase, the organogelling agent and the polymer forminga physiologically acceptable medium.
 64. Composition according to claim63, characterized in that it is self-supporting.
 65. Lipstick structuredcomposition, containing at least one pigment in a sufficient quantityfor applying make-up to the lips and a liquid continuous fatty phasecomprising at least one silicone oil structured with at least onepolymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight-average molecularmass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least one moietycomprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of agraft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogeninteractions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidinogroups, and combinations thereof, provided that at least one group isdifferent from an ester group, the polymer being solid at roomtemperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25to 250° C., the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally ofsilicone oil(s) and of an organogelling agent, the said compositionbeing provided in the form of a solid, and the pigment, the liquid fattyphase and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium. 66.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 64, characterized inthat it is provided in the form of a cake mascara, an eyeliner, afoundation, a lipstick, a blusher, a make-up-removing or deodorantproduct, a make-up product for the body, an eyeshadow or a face powder,or a concealer product.
 67. Make-up stick for the skin, the lips and/orthe superficial body growths, and in particular for the lips, containingat least one pigment in a sufficient quantity for applying make-up tothe skin, the lips and/or the superficial body growths and a liquidcontinuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil structuredwith at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having aweight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing atleast one moiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group,consisting of 1 to 1 000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moietyor in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable ofestablishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide,sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido,guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, providedthat at least one group is different from an ester group, the polymerbeing solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase ata temperature of 25 to 250° C., the liquid fatty phase consistingpartially or totally of silicone oil(s) and of organogelling agent, thepigment, the fatty phase and the polymer forming a physiologicallyacceptable medium.
 68. Cosmetic care, make-up or treatment method forthe keratinous materials of human beings, comprising the application tothe keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition in accordance withone of the preceding claims.
 69. Use of a sufficient quantity of atleast one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight-averagemolecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least onemoiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of1 to 1 000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in theform of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishinghydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidinogroups, and combinations thereof, provided that at least one group isdifferent from an ester group, the polymer being solid at roomtemperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25to 250° C., in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of aphysiologically acceptable composition, containing a liquid continuousfatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil, the liquid fatty phaseconsisting partially or totally of silicone oil(s) having a flash pointequal to or greater than 40° C. and greater than the softening point ofthe polymer and containing an organogelling agent, to structure the saidcomposition in the form of a self-supporting solid with a hardnessranging from 20 to 2 000 gf and preferably from 20 to 900 gf and evenbetter from 20 to 600 gf.
 70. Use of a continuous liquid fatty phasecomprising at least one silicone oil, essentially structured with asufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer)having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000,containing at least one moiety comprising: at least onepolyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000 organosiloxane unitsin the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least twogroups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester,amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido,guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, providedthat at least one group is different from an ester group, the polymerbeing solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase ata temperature of 25 to 250° C., the liquid fatty phase consistingpartially or totally of volatile oil(s) having a flash point equal to orgreater than 40° C. and greater than the softening point of the polymerand containing an organogelling agent, in a cosmetic composition or forthe manufacture of a physiologically acceptable, rigid, self-supporting,glossy and/or non-migrating composition, on the condition that thecomposition comprises at least 10% by mass of a non-volatile oil and/orof a pasty or viscous product.
 71. Use of a sufficient quantity of atleast one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight-averagemolecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least onemoiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of1 to 1 000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in theform of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishinghydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate,thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidinogroups, and combinations thereof, provided that at least one group isdifferent from an ester group, the polymer being solid at roomtemperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25to 250° C., in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of aphysiologically acceptable composition, containing a liquid continuousfatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil and at least oneorganogelling agent, to structure the said composition in the form of aself-supporting solid.
 72. Use of a continuous liquid fatty phasecomprising at least one silicone oil, essentially structured with asufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer)having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000,containing at least one moiety comprising: at least onepolyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000 organosiloxane unitsin a chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least twogroups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester,amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido,guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, providedthat at least one group is different from an ester group, the polymerbeing solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase ata temperature of 25 to 250° C., the liquid fatty phase consistingpartially or totally of volatile oil(s) having a flash point equal to orgreater than 40° C. and greater than the softening point of the gellingpolymer and containing an organogelling agent, in a cosmetic compositionor for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, asagent for limiting the migration of the said composition, on thecondition that the composition comprises at least 10% by mass of anon-volatile oil and/or of a pasty or viscous product.
 73. Use accordingto any one of claims 69 to 72, in which the composition has a hardnessof 20 to 2 000 gf, preferably of 20 to 900 gf and even better of 20 to600 gf.
 74. Cosmetic method for limiting the migration of a cosmeticcomposition containing a liquid fatty phase comprising at least onesilicone oil, consisting in structuring the said fatty phase with asufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer)having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000,containing at least one moiety comprising: at least onepolyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1 000 organosiloxane unitsin the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least twogroups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester,amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido,guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, providedthat at least one group is different from an ester group, the polymerbeing solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase ata temperature of 25 to 250° C., the liquid fatty phase consistingpartially or totally of silicone oil(s) and containing at least oneorganogelling agent.